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© 1999-2003 Brian F. Schreurs
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You're welcome to submit comments about our project car, make suggestions for future projects, reply to previous posts, or ask techie questions about your own car. Who knows, you might even get a long-winded answer from our Mustang guy!

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From Matthew Puckit on 17 December 2003:

was wondering if you knew what would be involved with or a general price of 
a motor swap from a 96 V6 mustang to a 351W? not including motor, trany, 
rear end, computer

From Jim Beavis on 28 November 2003:

You proboably don't remember me, but you gave me a giant assist in installing a
cobra intake about 2 yrs ago.  I was wondering if you could help with the following
question.  How much modification will be required to install a 351 W/400HP in a
stock 93 Fox Body?  Currently a 5.0 Liter/5 speed.  Thanks

From Matt Deleon on 27 October 2003:

hey neptune,
 
          i have an 83 ford mustang with a 140 ci motor in it, i recently replaced
the pistons because the old # 2 and 4 where almost desinigrated on the
side where the exhaust valve is. my friend told me it was because engine
was out of time 2 much and the valves were hitting the pistons. Im goin to
adjust the timing to the correct factory setting, but i was wondering if
you could adjust it to where my top power is between 3500-6400 r.p.m.
because i race it at a dirt track and i would lk to gain as much power as
i can becasue the rules state everything has to remain stock
 
                                                                 , thanks

From Alfred Marquez on 8 October 2003:

Here it is. My 94 GT 5 spedd Mustang suddenly started to "idle" at 3,000 
RPM. Nothing obviously wrong under the hood. Any ideas what the cause could 
be?

From Erin Hartensveld on 3 September 2003:

I am hoping somebody here can help.  My '95 5.0 Liter Mustang starts very poorly. 
It turns over and over.  Sometimes it catches and sometimes not.  Eventually it will
start, but someimtes it takes 5 or 6 tries.  We've taken "Martha" to different
mechanics and they are not able to find anything wrong.  The last time we had the
start problem, before the sixth try, I heard some type of mechanism moving.  It
sounded like when a robot moves his arm.  Can anyone help?

From Fozzie SM on 21 July 2003:

In one part of the super-charger install, you mentioned removing the smog 
pump. I also have a '95GT and am wandering what you did with the air lines that 
hooked up to it? What are they for? Where do they go?
Oddly, the Chilton's manual writers seem to have not noticed the smog pump 
(about half of it is shown in one picture in the whole friggin' manual).

From Fozzie SM on 20 July 2003:

'95 Mustang GT
I have one of these fine automobiles myself. I enjoy it more and more 
everyday on my 130 round trip to work.
You guys do a fantastic job, especially the humorous/sarcastic writing of 
your articles.
One question regarding the article about the Fan Relay Switch. You placed the 
switch where I have a Rear Window Defroster switch. Does the often improved 
GT in your articles have a rear window defroster?

From Jonathan Schell on 13 July 2003:

Howdy, I own a 94 V6 Mustang and yesterday my "check engine" light came on 
but the car still ran fine. Today I went to start it and it would start but 
only for a couple of seconds and then quit. It wouldn't rev higher than 
10000rpm either. I checked the oil and it turns out there was no oil so I 
put some in and it still won't start. Any ideas?

From Jon on 7 July 2003:

I am installing an tru cool oil cooler on my 1998 gt mustang.  I have come to a
problem with the adapter for the sandwitch plate and oil filter supplied with the
kit...the adpater nut/bolt is too small to screw into the block and filter.  Can I
buy a substitute from a hardware store...any help is appreciated...thanks

From Jonathan Schell on 6 July 2003:

Howdy, I drive a 1994 Mustang with the 3.8L V6. Since you guys seem to be in 
the know for this kind of stuff I got 2 questions for ya. First off what's 
the difference between the K&N Filtercharger (which came with my car) and 
the cold air induction? Second of all what's the difference between the cold 
air induction and ram air? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Jared on 30 June 2003:

Hi, I have a 94 mustang 3.8 v6 thats got around 230-245 hp,but i want more!
I need to know how to put a carborated 302 or 351w in it and do away with the
computer and other crap.I know prity much how to do the motor but not the 
electrical hook ups.
I'm wanting a street/strip that i can work on my self. can you refer me to 
website that explans
it all?                Jared.

From Seth Felgar on 16 June 2003:

I HAVE A PROBABLY SIMPLE QUESTION FOR YOU.  I HAVE A 1994 FOR MUSTANG GT, & I'M
TRYING TO INSTALL AN AUTOMETER TACH IN IT. I CAN PROBABLY FIGURE IT OUT BUT I DON'T
WON'T TO END UP TAPPING INTO SOMETHING THAT I'M NOT SUPPOSED TO. THE TACH HAS A
GREEN,WHITE,RED & BLACK WIRE. I KNOW THE WHITE=ILLUMINATION, GREEN=TACH SOURCE,
BLACK=GROUND, & RED=POWER SOURCE (W/KEY IN RUN/START POSITION). I JUST NEED TO KNOW
HOW TO HOOK IT UP CORRECTLY W/O MESSING UP MY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I DON'T THINK I
NEED ANY KIND OF ADAPTERS FOR THIS BUT I'M NOT FOR SURE. SO ANY INFO WOULD BE
GREATLY APPRECIATED.
THANKS 

From Anthony Volta on 14 June 2003:

I found your web site and found it very helpful.  I have a problem that I need some
assistance with. I have a 86 Capri with a 5.0 motor. I installed a Cobra Intake but
the vacume lines do not match up as they did from the stock intake. I searched
Haynes/Chilton and every back issue magazine\hipo book and can not find a diagram or
how to route the lines. There are 6 ports on the old intake and 5 ports on the
Cobra. The 5 ports are 3 on a tree and 2 large ports. I put together what I thought
would be correct , but it is not. The car starts but stutters because there is a
leak. Can you guide me in the right direction? Thanks, Tony.

From Donald on 22 May 2003:

Hello,
I recently bought a 2000 Mustang GT and I was told it had a 10lb clutch.
Anyways.  The clutch is about 5 inches higher than the break pedal.  Is
there a way to get lower the clutch pedal down to near where the break is?

I also want to decrease the tension on the clutch pedal.  Is there a way to
fix all my problems?

In short: I wish to lower the clutch and decrease the tension on it so all I
have to do is tap it and shift.  It is hurting my knee at the moment.

Thanks

From Kristal Pine on 26 April 2003:

88 mustang problem
I need to know where I can find seatbelt replacements for my husbands car. 
The problem I am having is that they will not stay locked while I am driving 
which can be dangerous:) Your help would really be appreciated. 

From J. Warner on 25 April 2003:

I was looking at the transmission pages for your mustang that you had. 
Primarily what interested me was the shift improver plate and when I was 
looking at your parts for sale I noticed you said that you blew your 
AODE transmission and are now selling the gasket/filter.  Is this a 
result of having these firm shifts with too much power or when and why 
do you think that it went out on you. It is really going to make or blow 
my judgement about going with one of the kits if is going to throw out 
my tranny.

any info would help, thanks.

From Ashley Harrell on 7 April 2003:

(if I post tech questions another way, please let me know.)
 
Hi...I have a '92 Mustang GT, 5-sp. with 72,000 mi. on it.  The car has no mods
whatsover and runs near perfect.  Most every car that I have owned has had a quick
throttle response with the motor revving exactly when you pat the gas.  You can pat
the gas with the car sitting around 800 rpm and it will act like it didn't get the
message, but then it will tach like it is supposed to.  The higher the RPM, the less
of a hesitation that it will have.  I cleaned the throttle body, checked the IAC
motor to make sure it was working, checked the TPS to make sure it was working then I
decided to let the pro's look at it.  I then took the car to the local Ford
Dealership and they had the total well over $100 until I finally just picked up the
car.  I then turned to another mechanic that is well schooled in Mustangs and he went
over it pretty good for me and said he couldn't really locate anything either.  The
car runs great, but it is annoying when you are trying to start out smooth from a
median and it misses and then you overcompensate.  The plugs are brand new in it
too.......Could it be a vacuum leak?  Any suggestions will help...Thanks!!!!

From Luis Cortez on 12 March 2003:

I have a 95 mustang gt and i get a gas smell that is pretty strong ONLY when my fuel
tank is low.. like less then 1/4 in the tank and when i have more then that i  dont
get any smell but once it hits less then 1/4 a strong odor gets lets out.I took my
car to the Ford dealer and they ran some test on my fuel lines and they said there is
nothing leaking and the pressure in the fuel lines are good. They told me that there
is a line that lets out the vapors from the fuel and that somehow the vapors are
going up hence the smell.. when the vapors should be going away.. what is your take?

From Dwayne Klepper on 26 February 2003:

Hello Fella's,
  My Name in Dwayne I have a 91 mustang gt pulling 13.8's in the 1/4 and 
I work for the second largest auto parts store in the east coast and I 
recommend products such as oil' fuel additive's, etc. tranny fluid is 
about the only thing we really don't recommend because there all about 
the same. I read your article on oil and fuel additive's and agree with 
you I don't like to recommend zmax, stp, slick 50, ~~~ slick the $50 in 
my pocket (HA! HA!) I never done any research but as user of the 
products of Lucas I recommend them the highest along with energy release 
because I use them and I drag race just about every weekend but am no 
star yet. but would like to know what you think of these three products 
lucas, energy release, and grease lighting.

p.s. maybe a bit about stp I know they been around a long time
Thanks Dwayne   
p.s.s. if you get a chance check out my website @
www.mustangmaddnessofyork.com please e-mail me with your reply as well 
as posting on your site.

From Adam Martinez on 21 February 2003:

Hi, I just happened to stumble across this site and
you guys definately know what you are talking about.
Anywho, I'll get right down to it. I own a 1993
Mustang 4-banger, I recently replaced my alternator
with a re-manufactured one from discount auto parts,
and I put in an entirely new battery, now here's my
problem, why won't it charge? Is it because the
alternator belt is on too tight? What can it possibly
be? Please any help would be appreciated on this
urgent matter. Thanks guys.

From Jamie Toyz on 20 February 2003:

Hi,

I recently took apart my dash for the first time on my newly acquired Mustang 
91 GT.,

Now the airbag light keeps flashing and I have obviously disconnected 
something or disrupted something,
Can anyone tell me the location of the airbag sensor inside the dash and what 
to look for etc. etc and what color it is?
Theres a whole load of wires under there!!!
Thanks in advance

From Jason Eagle on 18 February 2003:

I have a 1988 Mustang GT that I am in love with.   I have done everything to 
this car to set it up to be one of the nicest Mustangs on the road.   I have 
one problem though, my fog lights do not want to work with my headlights.   
The headlights will flicker and then eventually turn off.   Well, I bought 
the car a few years ago, the previous owner showed me an article in a 
magazine saying that this was a manufactures defect.   I seemed to have lost 
that mag.   So if you could please help me out and write back explaining to 
me how this all comes together, it will be much appreciated.

Thank you

From Mark Shaffer on 25 January 2003:

93 corbra mustang
how can i change my cobra from gas to alcohal?

From David Martin on 24 January 2003:

i have a gt upper and lower on my mustang.
it come off a cobra.would you recomend bigger
24lb injectors.

From Chris Arnold on 22 January 2003:

I have a 1996 Mustang 3.8 v6 which has a standard tire size of 205/65 
r15.  I wish to get a wider tire, but do not wish to change rim width or 
diameter (because I am poor!).  Do you know what the maximum tire width 
is that can go on the base 15" rims safely without rubbing against the 
car (understandably sharp cornering might cause friction with the car).

Any help would be greatly appreciated since tire companies know little 
other than what their computer references.

From Will Crow on 20 January 2003:

 I bought a t-rex off of e-bay, but it didn't come with the relay.  My
experience with vortech is that they are very proud of their parts, so I'm
wanting to know if you have any numbers of of the relay so I can just go buy
one.  Thanks for your time.  

From Hefner heifer on 17 January 2003:

hello 
i have a 86 mustang with a 302 or 5.0 and i am going to put a cam in it but i 
want to run as big as lift as possible with stock heads.  i am modifying the 
heads with big valves and i want the cam to rev really quick what lift 
duration and l/c should i run.

From Christopher Malcolm on 17 January 2003:

hey i just got a bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulartor for a 1994 mustang 
5.0- i lost the threaded stud on the top....what should i do? where can i 
get the fittings to hook up a braided hose to the regulator? thanks

From Pat Borowski on 16 January 2003:

I read through your instructions on how to install a fuel pump and they 
were very helpful.  Everything went well except when I give my car gas 
it starts dying like it's gulping for air or gas.  I'm not a very good 
trouble shooter.  Any ideas.  The car worked perfect when it was running 
before.  The car idles great but as soon as you give it any gas it 
starts gulping.  

Thanks

From Hefner heifer on 16 January 2003:

I have a 86 mustang lx with a 3.8 v6 and i have a 5.0l fuel injection engine 
with the fuel injection ram and i want to know what i need to do to put this 
engine in my car.  i know i need a oil pan and things like that the wiring 
has me ???? what do i do.  

thanks

From Ken Willis on 16 January 2003:

I got a Slightly Used U/P set online and when I received it, the
alternator pulley was exactly the same size as my stock one.  The Fan
(Water Pump) pulley was just abit larger (radius) and the Crank pulley
was quite abit smaller.  I got the feeling that the guy who sold me the
pulleys included his stock Alternator Pulley. How much difference in
size should there have been.  I have a 92 5.0 and here's a link to the
auction.
[Auction link removed]

From Rhett Sigmon on 15 January 2003:

Hello hello!
Let me say thank you for answering my questions first off! Just bought a
2000 gt do you know what exhaust comes stock with the 2000? It sounds pretty
damn good but is there an even deeper growling exhaust system out there?
I'm looking to increase my torque and hp just a little not too much (+50
hp).  Do you recommend the SuperChip (does it really work?) and perhaps an
exhaust up grade?
Thanks for your time--Rhett Sigmon

From Josh Murphy on 13 January 2003:

I'm preparing to do a twin-turbo setup on my '96 3.8L Mustang but so far
no one has been able to tell me how much boost a stock engine can take.
As long as the RPMs stay below stock redline and there's no knock the
pistons and rods should be fine, right?  Even running 15psi (I'm
shooting to be in the 8-12psi range) I think only fractionally adds to
the total stress on the rods and crank considering inertial stress will
remain the same with the same redline.  I'm more worried about how much
the head bolts and head gasket can take.  So do you have any insight on
what kind of boost pressures a stock 3.8L block can handle? (I'll be
running new fuel/ignition curves of course) 
Thanks,
~Josh

From Adam Woods on 3 January 2003:

As your driving, does the air fuel gauge bounce back and forth, or does
it hang around one place?  When you get on it, does it go green?

From Adam Woods on 31 December 2002:

Where about is the oxygen sensor harness in a late model mustang to tap
into for a air fuel guage??

From Rafael Junior on 25 December 2002:

what color is the signal wire on the the oxygen sensor , which side sensor 
did you use, theres four wires on it i think  please im me asap by the was 
nice stang mine is the same in side wish i could see the outside   rafael

From Kevin Taylor on 20 December 2002:

I love your site!!! I have a 94 gt and I have a powerdyne blower on it. I have it at
6 pounds of boost but damn I crave more power. My friend has a highly modified trans
am and he is still slightly faster. I have some other things like msd, equal length
headers, short throw shifter, etc. I was wondering what you think about bumping that
up to 9 pounds of boost with a stock engine (meaning gaskets). I don't want to blow a
head gasket. Instead of power i'd rather have my car in one piece if given the
choice. If you don't think 9 pounds is a good idea, what other things could you
reccomend to get me up there? I would greatly appreciate your help. I was looking
into an aluminum driveshaft but I don't have the money yet. 3.5 gears in the back
might help but I want to be able to keep a top end on my car. Please, any info would
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time,
Kevin.

LOVE YOUR SITE!!!

From Matthew Vattioni on 3 December 2002:

how do you know what ratio FMU to use?

6:1? 8:1? 10:1? 12:1? etc.....

how do you know what ratio of fmu to use on your turbo/supercharged 
system?

also how do you know what fuel pump to use?  255?

From Russ on 29 November 2002:

 I have an 1989 mustang GT and I saw a gauge pod that sits on top of the 
factory ash tray door. and now I can not find it again wondered if you 
ever heard of this or maybe know who might manufacture one of these 
thanks for any help Russ

From Larry Clevinger on 11 November 2002:

how do you change a fuel filter on a 2001 mustang?

From Mark Thorman on 7 November 2002:

I have a 94 GT. conv. With ported and polished intake, Mac cold air intake,
Pro-m 77 mass air 24lb injectors, bassani x-pipe, Mac springs, upper and lower
control arms, Lakewood shocks and struts, MSD 6 box, 8.8 wires, coil, ATI
stabilizer, 245/50R16, B&M hammer. I just recently put in a Motive 4.10 rear
gear, Auburn Pro Diff., Strange 31-spline rear axles, Mac rear cover, FMS
aluminum drive shaft, 23 tooth speedo gear. Stock rear gear set was 2.73 so it
feels awesome. Tranny is a aode with shift kit and has less then 5,000 miles on
total rebuild. Now for the question, Before the tranny felt great shift points
where strong 1-2 at 50 2-3 at 70. Shift points stay the same for 1-2, but 2-3
does not engage unless I let the off of the trottle. Power is still there and
fuel does not seem to be the problem. Horsepower is in the range of 260-270. I
have done all performance mods myself except for tranny rebuild. If you think I
need different shift kit please let me know. I am willing to do anything, if you
don't know give me any ideas if multiple OK.
Thanks for helping

From a queen on 20 October 2002:

i have a  68 mustang with inline 6 and i want to put a 351 windsor what do i
have to do ??

From Stan the kicker on 19 October 2002:

97 gt mustang over heated changed thermostat still over heats took out the stat
car does not over heat do i need the stat at all

From Brad Smith on 2 October 2002:

I currently own a 1994 Mustang GT.  It's and automatic and it has some minor
bolt on's currenty (Cold Air induction, Flowmaster's, etc.).  My next step was
going to be a rear gear.  What would be the best ratio?  I was thinking 3.73
because I still have to drive it on the highway, and I was just hoping to get a
little extra kick at the local strip.  I also heard that I have to buy some kind
of mod chip so that my transmission will shift correctly and my gages will read
correctly if I do change the gear.  Is this correct?  Thank's for your time.

From Bobby Lane on 23 September 2002:

Hello,
      I have a 1995 GT (5.0) that has spent a lot of time in the shop
lately. It's getting the following codes (181,Fuel system was lean at part
throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S and 189 for the left side). I think
every wire, button, plug, fuel pump and filter has been replaced with no
luck. I'm the second owner of this car and It appears that the catalytic
converters have been removed. Do you think the converts being gone are
causing the problem or do you suspect something else?

Thanks

From Philippe Hamel on 17 September 2002:

Hi!

I'm looking for information on shift kits.  I have a 1994 Mustang GT.  I'm
thinking about going with TransGo. 
I read your installation article and it seems pretty easy.
I've used a B&M Shift Improver kit before on another 5.0L AOD car and was
dissapointed by the results.  At WOT
the 1-2 shift might have been firmer.  Then again, it could
have been wishful thinking.

Now, from your article, I gather that the TransGo delivers the good and it's
possible to get whiplash inducing shifts.  What I'm wondering about, are the
shifts much firmer  all the time or just during heavy acceleration?  When I'm
just slowly cruising with the wife and kids, will I get dirty looks from the
passenger seat?

Thanks!

From Semy Janie on 22 August 2002:

Ok Ok its my work car before you even say anything...I own a 95 mustang v6 and
cant seem to find the pcv valve where is it?
Another thing...seems like when I accelerate on the road it feels like it skips
a lot... nlike the transmission is slipping but I know its not the
transmission...seems more like a fuel problem. I just changed out the fuel
filter...I was wondering could it be the fuel injectors or maybe a bad spark
plug?
Someone told me it might be my rear differentil...is that possible...doesnt seem
to lose power just stutters a lot when I press the gas...thank from South Texas,
Semy

From Chris Reilly on 13 August 2002:

Hi, I own a 1994 Mustang Gt. As your familiar it has one of the lucky 5.0 motors
in it. Its also a manual transmission. I have a huge problem though.... I need
to decide between getting a Borla, Bassani, or Flowmaster cat back system. I
want the more hp I can get and price doesn't matter because I've been saving a
great deal of money. What are the ups and downs of each of these products, which
would you get??? I know that both Bassani and Borla have stainless steel
products so I wouldn't have to worry about rust compared to flowmaster's
aluminum pipes. But flowmaster also have a life warranty to their
product...Any help would much be appreciated. Thanks- Chris

From Pat Buckley on 12 August 2002:

91 Mustang Convertible Top

Top won't move.
 
Up and down relays in trunk near top motor both click. Voltmeter shows no
voltage is going to motor.
 
Do you know where the fuse or circuit breaker is that feeds the12 volts to the
relays? The local Ford dealer didn't.
 
Thanks.
 
Pat in Florida

From Mason Weitzel on 8 August 2002:

i have a 73 mustang convertible.  the top switch doesnt work right half the time so i
baught a new one.  there is like a bezel nut on the thredsa to remove the old one.  i
can turn it a bit but it gets to hard to turn.  how do i take this off.

From Jerry Jeremiah on 28 July 2002:

I have a 95 mustang GT with a 5-speed in it. I see you did an oil cooler install and
I do believe I have the same oil cooler kit as yourself. I had a few questions......

Do the brass fittings screw all the way into the cooler? I couldn't get mine to go
all the way down and the threads are showing, I didn't want to force it.

Should I use anything special as far as chemicals on the fittings the hose is gonna
clamp onto? Some type of silicon or something?

Is this thing supposed to sit against the radiator? The way I have mine mounted its
not sitting against the radiator and I was wondering if it mattered much.

And lastly, do you think its alright to install the oil cooler with the hose fitting
 holes pointing up or sideways instead of down? I don't know if its supposed to be
 mounted a certain way in particular.

From Tim Holderle on 11 July 2002:

I bought a 98 gt with a full length a pillar pod installed.  From what I have read,
it appears that it's supposed to go OVER the existing a pillar cover.  Mine is alone!
 In the heat of the summer, the glue on the velcro holding the pod let go...no damage
 just annoying.

Am I correct, should there be a factory pillar cover in place OVER which the full
length pod goes?  If not, then, do you have a better way of attaching the gauge pod.

Thanks for your help

From Mike Mills on 30 June 2002:

i need some help piecing together my dream i am going to build a deadly 1966
fastback, 460, nitroused, tilt fiberglass front end, strip/street car can you help
with any helpful product info or anything at all to make this dream a reality.
thanks. 

From J. Lanza Jr. on 27 June 2002:

i have a 93 mustang gt i have a 2.50 h-pipe and 2 chamber flowmasters im not sure
what the series is but it isnt loud enough i need to know about the one chamber that
flowmaster has if i put one chamber flowmasters on my mustang will it sound loud and
powerful or will it sound like a straight piped truck if it has the sound im looking
for (turning heads everywhere i go) i would love to have them on my car
please email me back so i can get your opinion

From Texas Vick on 22 June 2002:

Ok....I just bought a 96 cobra 4.6L....all it has is 36 thousand miles on it.
 Right now everything is bone stock on it.  My question is. What upgrades
(mods) should i do from headers to exhaust....I want to know the best mods
for 96 cobra. I have no cluse where to start. Exhaust wise, one person
suggest h-pipe another x-pipe. I don't know where to start. So please help
me. Thankyou

From Clein Malicdem on 13 June 2002:

I just recently purchased a B&M Shift Plus electronic shift improver kit for my 1998
mustang v6.  It says in the instruction that you need to have a AODE/4R70W
transmission.  And that it needs to be connected to the transmission connector.  The
box indicates that it can be used on 94-97 mustangs.  Is there that much of a
difference between a 98 and a 97 mustang?  Or since I have the same transmission I
should have no problem?

From Jeremy Coffin on 7 June 2002:

I was following your guide for replacing my oil sender unit. I just
picked up a autometer and wanna run a dual system on my 91 lx stang like
you did with the 95 on your site. I am wondering if you know of a good
place to get the parts you listed. I am looking to order them online but
if i can get them locally here i could do that as well. Are the
t-fitting and braided hoses all NOS parts?.......also when you say home
depot racers supply i am assuming you mean just some generic hardware
you found at the home depot. What department of the depot did you find
the t-bracket in? Can you help me out?

thanks i cant wait to get this system in.

From Ryan Atkins on 31 May 2002:

  from Ryan

    I have a ? maybe you can answer. Will thunderbird turbo coupe injectors work
	in an 87 mustang GT. I already have mass-air c&l 73mm plus I have an air
	adjuster(changes mass-air signal for different size injectors). I was told
	the t-birds are 35 or 36Ib hr . I'm doing a junkyard twin turbo build and
	was wondering if the might work.

My list of mods
underdrive pulleys, equallength headers, 65mm TB, 73mm MF, off-road H pipe,
flowmasters, removed power steering-a/c-smog pump, tubular K-member A-arms
Coil-overs,flaming river manual rack,90/10s,50/50,Southside's upper and lower control
arms,31 spline moser axles, HD-auburn, c-clip eliminators,3.73 gears,3550 tremec,
pro-5.0 shifter,aluminum driveshaft,pro-stars (3.5inch front,8inch rear wheels),
190Liter fuel pump,relocated battery to trunk, removed all sound deadener,otherwise a
260,000 mile stock 302.         13.23 ET at 101mph     1.8  60ft
                on 275/50 nitto drag-radials (spinning in first)
                              thanks a alot

From Sharon Stratman on 16 May 2002:

how to install a battery cable in the mustang.  positive +

From Carlos Hernandez on 28 April 2002:

Hi,

       My name is carlos and i would like to request  a free catalog
information , brochures  about  FORD MUSTANG.

Thanks a lot

From Erika Rubio on 21 April 2002:

this may sound really stupid but I don't know s*** about cars.  I just bought a neon
fader license plate frame for my 98 mustang, and i can't find the light wires to
install them to.  Could you guys tell me where to look.  I know it sounds dumb, but
any help is appreciated. thx

From Ed Shepherd on 19 April 2002:

Hi, Pony People,
I am in Washington and if I bought all the parts and you supervised my
building of a cold air kit I would like to do that. Next week good time
when? Thanks.
                      Blessings, Ed
p.s. I wanted to write a question to you about my mustang running
smoooooth at times and then at other times lugging, it still goes, but
has that caught up feeling. I was wondering if there were any suggestions
for that causal effect.

From Copper Brett on 6 April 2002:

Hi, I recently installed an under drive pulley set up on my 92 Mustang 5.0. I did not
install the alternator pulley because I have charging problems as it is. My car is
equipped with A/C and power steering. My stock belt is too big allowing my tentioner
pulley to be maxed out applying only moderate pressure on the belt. The belt is
making a slight squeaking noise. My question is, what belt should I ask for at the
local parts store that would fit properly?

From Hank Heckman on 4 April 2002:

I recently put a fiberglass Mach 1 hood on my 91 Mustang. It is from
American sports car . It is very good quality and there are no problems with
it except the scoops are open. I know a functional scoop is good but for my
case I would like them closed off. Is there plugs or anything made to block
these off or am I going to have to fabricate something.  Thanks in advance

From Donald Duque on 28 March 2002:

Hey, I just found your website while doing a search for mustangs :)
I was wondering how you came about your car knowledge?
I want to learn to work on cars.  I can do the basics now (change tires,
oil, ...) all the really easy stuff.
But I want to do more with my mustang (93 LX convertible auto.)
Where should I start, what manuals should I purchase?  schools/training...
Should I go try to hand out at the local mustang shop :)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated...

From Paul Douglass on 26 March 2002:

We have talked to many sorces around town and they have all said that the trottle
body induction will give us many problem. Also cant u do more modifications with a
carborated engine???  Sorry about all the questions but i am 16 trying to learn about
engines and cars with my dad so if you have any suggestions about the computer on the
trottle body or  any other suggestions you would have please tell me it would help me
ALOT!!!! THANK YOU for your help so far i appreciate it.

From Paul Douglass on 23 March 2002:

I am going to convert a 289 ci. 66 mustang coupe into a 5.0 from a 87 lincoln. Do you
see any problems in me doing this? i am also wanting to put in the same transmission
from the lincoln in it because of overdrive.  Also i going to switch it over from
trottlebody injection to carburator .thanks   big texan brad

From Henry Dement on 20 March 2002:

Hello,
I have a 92 Mustang, V8, 5.0.   A problem occurred when I depress the
clutch pedal.  I feel two thudds and the pedal goes to the floor.  I can't
shift into any gears.  Upon inspection of the clutch self-adjusting
assembly the plastic teeth of the quadrant is worn.  They sell a
BBK clutch kit with a clutch cable, metal quadrant and metal
self adjustment assembly.  I want to do the installation myself.
Is there an easy and tested method for the removal and installation
of the parts.  I have the "Chiltons repair manual" and it states a
whole lot of interference must be remove like the steering wheel etc...
Thanks for your advice.

From Bernie Bjaden on 20 March 2002:

Hi... I got a qestion to ask i own a 95 nustang.
And i was wondering if you .can Help me........
by explaining to me were the fuel filter is located at
I would really appreciate if you could. Email me back.
Thank you.

From Chris Lusco on 4 March 2002:

I have a 95 GT and I am looking at building a Cold Air Induction system.
The one at Paradise garage looks easy enough, but I cant figure out
where to put the Air Tem Sensor, that sticks into the factory filter
housing.  Please help

From Ghost In the Tainted Machine, or Something on 4 March 2002:

Hi guys. Found your site by accident and since you're all a bunch of
smartasses (compliment, not flame) I KNEW this was the place to find the
right help!

My pony is possessed, probably by some ford hating demon. I turn on my
lights (parking and or head) and the temperature gauge goes up just a little
 Turn em off and it goes down. Also, under the steering column there is a
black/red wire (much like the other 2 black/red wires) that heats up enough
to burn you when the lights are on, but is nice a cold when you turn em off.
The wire in question has been butt-spliced with what I believe is a too
small guage of spice (the blue type) and the outside of it is burned black.
The other black/red wire has the same setup and splice.

Any ideas before I go screwing things up?

Oh, and thanks for having this guestbook/forum up, not only did I find
answers to other questions, I laughed too, which is needed after spending
hours searching for answers.

GhostInTheMachine

From Mike Raven on 1 March 2002:

hey have a 87 mustang 5.0 had to change valve cover gaskets not realizing at the time
that i would have to remove all intake system to be able to remove valve covers,
anyway it worked out well. In the process i pulled injectors out to check them, to
clean what i did was first to see if the worked was connected them to a 9 volt
battery because of the fuel pressure there were miniscule amouts of fuel still in
them so they spit fuel out it sounds like a mini pump going on and off, i suppose a
cheap rig would be to  clamp a rubber line to injector which would connect to a
sturdy plastic container ( juice type etc.) epoxy it into bottle near bottom. insert
your favorite cleaning fluid into bottle, connect some fitting to top of bottle that
would connect to air compressor set at about 10 psi or something injector will still
work with no psi but no fuel will enter. anyway the air compressor will force fluid
into injector then add the 9 power to it. probably total cost would be 15 bucks at
the most. suppose u could also just get extra compressor tubing and fill it up with
fluild and clamp it onto injector , power on injector and compressor. would cost
nothing.
On another question with my mustang, noticed one day car over heated and was pissing
radiator fluid from around waterpump area, or behind the big timing wheel? was hard
to see exactly, but it was somewhere under water pump. pump isnt making any ball
bearing noises etc. noticed stock temp guage reads overheating and then it suddenly
drops, suspect thermostat but after removing it it seems fine? worked with blow torch
replacing it anyway any other item it could be? car does not leak fluid anymore even
when temp jumps to overheat and then sudden drops to normal/cold would bad thermostat
cause pressure release somewhere else in system as in a relief valve or is a seal
gone somewhere.. Thanks Michael
Raven_nh@gsinet.net

p.s i built my own cold air induction system similiar to yours. couldnt afford the
100$ and the stamp :)

From Jim Beavis on 11 February 2002:

I recently installed the Speedware white face plates in my 93 LX.  I followed the
instructions, marked the position of all needles, reinstalled accordingly.  After my
first fill up post install, the fuel gage reads about 1/8 over the full mark.  I'm
pretty sure the speedo and tach are right, but now I am questioning the accuracy of
the rest.  Is there a way to re-calibrate these, or do I have to go back into the
dash and move the needles manually?  Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

From Ryan the Very Young on 8 February 2002:

hi my name is ryan.  i have a 1995 Mustang GT andi was wondering about the K&
N Filtercharger Injection Performace Kit.  I cant find it anywhere and i
wanted a little more information on exactly what is was?  i would greatly
appreciate if you could help me out at all!  thank you so much!

From Jim Beavis on 6 February 2002:

I have a 93 LX 5.0 and recently purchased a cobra intake.  Before I  tear into this
monster, I was wondering if you could tell me just how difficult or easy this will
be.

Thanks

From Holly Not-the-Carburetor on 2 February 2002:

Hello,
My father is looking at a 69 mustang to buy. The gentlemen tells us that this car is
a two door coupe straight window, and that it is rare.  Do you know anything about
these cars?
I have been searching the internet for a while now, and I can't find any information
on this car. Any information you may know about a two door 69 coupe with a straight
back window will help us!!!
Thank you in advance

From Octavio Vallarino on 23 January 2002:

Lookig for tailpipe to bolt on a 2.5 inch exhaust pipe that converts to
twin outlets (either chrome or stainless steel).
This is for a 67 Mustang GT. The originals for the car are for a smaller
exhaust pipe and will not work since I put headers and 2.5 inch dual
exhaust pipes on the car.
Appreciate help in locating these tailpipes.

From Christopher Caelistis on 9 January 2002:

While I know you guys are offering to give the ones you have away, I have
more of a question than actually wanting them.

Having recently purchased the service manual for my 95 GT, I was surprised
to learn that things like EGR and PCV valve locations are covered in a
seperate manual that covers the emissions system by itself. I contacted
Helm, the people who now distribute Ford service manuals and the like, and
they're backordered.

Could y'all be really cool and drop me a line that tells me WHERE the EGR
valve is? I'm not wanting personal mechanic support but I've been searching
the net for days and I've come up with nothing on placement.

Thanks.

From Steve Cho on 28 December 2001:

Hi,

I came across your mustang site and was quite impressed with all th info on
it.  I writing to you about the thermostat you are giving away.  I own a 88
Mustang Gt convertible with only 80,000km (about 50,000 miles).  It too has
an auto tranny.  So far, the only mods I have are 3.73 gears, dynomax
exhaust and k&n airfilter.  I've also bumped the timing and removed the
silencer.  I've also added a set of 5 star 16" chrome pony rims to replace
the 'ol turbines.

I live in Regina, SK. Canada and was wondering how much it will cost to
have that shipped here?  Also, was the swap worth it?

Thanks,

From Stephen Watts on 23 December 2001:

Hi,

  My son had a local performance shop in Dallas, Texas order and install a catback
  system on his brand new 2000 Mustang GT back in December 11, 2000. Yes, over a year
  ago.  The system never lined up properly.  I looked under the car and found that
  the front pipes on both left and right mufflers were identical in length.  The
  right and left mufflers do not line up.  The right muffler is about 2 inches
  forward of where the left muffler is. This caused the bend over the axle on the
  right side to hit the rear axle at the back of the bend.  There is a flange with
  bolts at that part of the bend where the tailpipe bolts.  The flange and bolt have
  been shearing off due to their hitting the axle housing.  The left side of the
  catback lines up perfectly.  You can see the right tailpipe is shorter in the back
  in relation to the left tailpipe.

  I have been trying to explain to the sales guy where my son had this system ordered
  and installed that the system is incorrect to the car.  I showed him the
  measurements from the stock system, telling him that the right side pipe on the
  front of the muffler needs to be a bit longer to compensate for the shortness of
  the right pipe coming out of the catalytic converter.  I tried showing the guy this
  with their h-pipes they sell.

  This guy insists that even on the stock systems the mufflers do not lineup with
  each other.  I told him he was wrong but there is no way to convince this guy.  I
  have the owner of this establishment involved now, and I want to give credible
  information.  Can you please help?  PLEASE????  This shop specializes in MUSTANGS,
  and I think the salesman, who is supposed to be their expert on late model
  Mustangs, has an ego problem and cannot admit that he is wrong.  We would like the
  car to be right.

Sincerely,

 Stephen A. Watz

From Gregory Beethree on 8 December 2001:

I saw your cold air instructions and thought you might be able to help me
out. I have a 95GT and recently put new heads,intake,ect.I have a MAC cold
air kit on the car and am having surging idle problems. I had a custom chip
made which helped alot but have been told by a few people that the problem
is the cold air kit,specificaly the sharp bend in front of the mass air.What
if any opinion do you have about that?

From Charles Bauer on 2 December 2001:

Hi,
I have a 94 stang gt and I want to move the battery to
the trunk.  I am looking at the Taylor stainless box.
First do I just run the wires where the stock ones
were?  2nd the kit has 2 gauge wires is that good
enough?  Or should they be 1 gauge?  I am runnning an
optima battery.  3rd is this a good idea?  4th Do I
need to move the starter solenod to the trunk also.
Please help me.
-chuck

From Ken Griffith on 11 November 2001:

I have an 88 GT that I converted to mass air.  I've
put some other mods into the car, but have recently
run into a problem.  Usually in the 2000-2500rpm range
under mild acceleration the engine misses and
sometimes bucks.  Under harder acceleration the car
runs fine until I hit the high rpms where it will
backfire pretty bad.  I ran it on the code scanner and
that comes up with TPS and EGR being the problems.
The thing is that both of these are relatively new.  I
have read that the computer can be the cause, but that
is only three years old.  I thought the car might have
been running lean, but I put new O2 sensors in it and
checked the feul pump...everything was fine.  What
could this problem possibly be?  I am killing to put
my intake and cam in, but I need to fix this problem
first.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Gene Heydt on 8 November 2001:

Hi, it's me again:

Here's some further observations of my ticking and clicking fuel pressure
gauge.

This morning, second morning with the replacement pressure regulator, the
ambient temperature was about 45 degrees F. All was quiet for about 10
miles. Just about the time the engine is up to normal operating temperature
it starts up again. Upon close observation I notice that it is definitely
noisier when accelerating. A quieter noisy on moderate acceleration and a
louder noisy on heavy acceleration. Of course, simultaneously the
vacuum/boost gauge is showing a moderate drop in vacuum (say to 5-10 psi) or
it goes into the boost range (2-3 psi) under heavy acceleration. At idle,
the vacuum gauge indicates about 18 psi and the fuel pressure gauge is
bearly audible. If I gear down say 5th to 3rd or 4th to 2nd, and get of the
gas entirely, the vaacuum goes to like 22 psi and there is no noise from the
gauge.
To me all of the vacuum/boost readings seem perfectly normal. I know the
fuel pressure regulator is connected to the vacuum system. I just can't
equate the noises and vacuum readings into something meaningful.
I also observed that when turning the ignition switch on and before cranking
the engine, the fuel pump runs and then shuts off. I did not observe the
fuel pressure gauge reading. After staring the engine I have not been able
to detect that the fuel pump ever stops. Even at idle it runs continuously.
This may all be normal.
Also, as I mentioned in my earlier e-mail, the code scanner I borrowed
indicated a code for something about something 'EVAP PURGE' (don't have my
notes here). It suggested checking the gas cap and hose lines, which I have
not done yet. Maybe there's a distant relationship between my ticky/clicky
gauge and the 'EVAP PURGE'  system. The gas cap was (by itself, not
installed on the car) just tested for our PA state-required annual emissions
testing. It passed, I think, unless the independent test operator saved
himself the trouble of testing my tethered cap and just screwed another cap
on the machine!. They don't really do that, do they?
Anyway, if you get around to reading any of this and have any ideas, I'd
appreciate hearing from you. Just typing this up has given me the urge to
dig around that gas cap and all of those hoses running around back there.
Thanks again,

From James W. Bond on 8 November 2001:

Hey this is a cool web-site.  My name is James and I want to install a
cat-back system in my mustang.  It is a 2002 mustang 3.8 V6.  I was wondering
about how much more horsepower will I get?  Also, about how much should I pay
for the cat-back system?  I dont want to get ripped off.

From Gene Heydt on 7 November 2001:

To Whom It May Concern:

I appreciate if you could read the rest of my message and offer any
suggestions as to what I am facing.

I think I'm having a fuel pressure regulator problem on my 1997 Mustang
Cobra. So I went surfing and found your site. Good stuff.

I'm not into this for racing. I bought the car from my son. He had equipped
it with a Vortech Supercharger,  their T-Rex fuel pump, and other goodies to
make it a real snake-in-the-grass!

Anyway, he also put in a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge in an A-pillar
cluster. Right their in front of one's left eye, and a few inches further
from one's left ear. I know there are only 2K miles on the fuel pressure
gauge because my son never could get the dumb thing (who's dumb?) to not
leak inside the car! I fixed all that. There is a stainless hose line coming
off the front end of the rightside fuel rail that crosses the front of the
engine via the strut tower brace, where it transitions to your basic 1/8"
plastic tubing, which passes into the passenger compartment and up to the
gauge.

Thing is, it was perfectly quiet til a couple of weeks ago when the gauge
started ticking and clicking intermittently, then all the time. when I first
hooked it up the gauge hung steady at about 37 psi. Recently, along with the
noise, it was up into the low 40's and would swing upward under accelaration
(reduction of vacuum). I borrowed a code scanner (for another difficulty)
which indicated fuel pressure (presumably before the regulatotor) was 74.1
psi. I can physically 'feel' the ticking and clicking in the tubing running
up the A-pillar into the gauge with my finger tip. I just replaced the stock
Ford regulator with a stock Ford regulator thinking the regulator, with 15K+
miles on it with the T-Rex behind it, had bought the farm. The gauge still
sounds off!

In reading your article I see your comment about an "isolator". As far as I
can see there is no obvious device sticking around the engine compartment or
behind the gauge that could be called an isolator. Thing is, it was quiet -
now it's not. And I'm clueless.

The car runs fine. Except for running out of roadway, I can wind it up into
third gear without it skipping a beat (just have to keep it going in a
straight line!).

Is there anything you can suggest that I ought to looking into to quiet
things down again?

Thanks for your time and interest

From Jeremy Merman on 31 October 2001:

Hi my name is Jeremy,

       I have a 94 v6 mustang, I was wondering if you could give me some easy
and simple mods I could do myself for increasing the horsepower and torque. I
appreciate it thanx.

From Chris Gray on 29 October 2001:

I have a 98 ford mustang with a 3.8LV6. I want a cold air intake system but
don't have that much money to spend. I was wondering if you could send me a
list of the parts I need so I could do it my self.

Thank you

From the Kleinsekhels on 7 October 2001:

I hope you can help my horse.   I am working on an 84 with 95 front and rear
suspention.   4-10 rear end, 5 speed and a 79 302 that we put a 90 front
timing chain cover on so we could go to the surpt. belt.   We then decide to
go with under drive pullies and an a/c emlimination.    Problem is we don't
know how to install the a/c elmination.   I believe it came from a company
called Mach?   My brother tried to contact them but got no response.    Do
you know how to help?

From Tim the New York Cowboys Fan on 6 October 2001:

I dot know if this is going to work but....I just bought a 96' mustang Gt
with 60,000 miles on it, the car is in beautiful shape.  I want to put some
upgrades on it such as a cat-back exhaust, ram air intake w/ k&n, mass air
sensor, and anything else that gives me some more horsepower.  Got any ideas?
 I am 17 years old and do not know how to do this myself.  I think that I can
bolt on the ram air kit, but I dot know about the mass air sensor, and the
exhaust.  My dad works with a mechanic who works out of his garage and has
serviced my moms talon for years.  Think I should ask him to install the
exhaust and mass air sensor? And anything else you guys can tell me for
horsepower or performance upgrades.

From Alexander Gudino on 4 October 2001:

I just finished installing all my package on my 92 5.0. I have gt40 alluminum 
heads,cobra upper/lower intake,24lb injectors/c&l 76mm mass air meter, 190lph 
fuel pump/mac 15/8 shorties,h-pipe w/ 2chamber flowmasters,k&n air filter with factory 
box and c&l tube to go to 70 mm bbk throttle body/Underdrive pulleys,1.6 billet 
alluminum rocker arms.How much rear wheel hp should i have?

From Confused Forced Induction Guy on 26 September 2001:

hey guys, i hope you can help because i am stumped..well i got a 93 mustang
coupe. 5.0  it has p&p heads,custom cam,cobra intake,24# injectors and tons
more but you get the idea. ow - yeah i just put on a powerdyne supercharger..
heres where my problem started.. car screams.....  when i put my foot in to
see what she's got the pvc valve blows out and oil goes every where. now i am
a pretty good shade tree.....but this can't be good...PLEASE HELP.....or
point me in the right direction. just to let you know this took me about
three hours to right...:)
turbocharged69@hotmail.com

From Yankee JD on 12 September 2001:

   Hi. I recently installed a B&M shift kit on a 2000 Mustang GT and come to
find out its the totally wrong model (they dont make one for my car) and the
company I purchased it from is sending me a trans go free of charge. I have a
few questions on install procedure and performance.
  The first question is that am I right in understanding that not all check
balls will go back in? B&M called for replacing them all in the positions
they came from. And about drilling. Does this kit call for drilling outside
of the stock hole locations or no? And you said this kit calls for valve body
drilling? B&M mentioned nothing of that (maybe THATS why none of it worked)
The last question I have is about the gaskets.
Heres what you have on your site:
>>>>Position the valve body gasket without the three large holes first.

Set the separator plate on top of that and lightly smear it with transmission
fluid. Be sure it goes on straight and flat, or fluid will sneak into the
wrong channels and the trans won't hold a gear.

Position the valve body gasket with three large holes on top.<<<<<
Just to clarify, are you saying gasket on the bottom (between valve body and
sep. plate) then the seperator plate, then the 3 holed gasket on top of the
sep. plate, where the discs are then reinstalled? Hope Im not bugging you,
but you seem to know what youre talking about and have already done the
install. Any insight would be appreciated.
 Finally, after the install, assuming everything goes well. Will I REALLY
notice a difference or no? People are saying that itll just shift faster and
I really wont be any the wiser unless Im really gunning it? True?

From Kari Bishop on 7 September 2001:

Hello,

I am wondering if you answer questions on-line and if you respond to email
because I could really use your help!!

A bit of history...
I own a 1995 Mustang GTS.  I bought it brand new from a dealership and have
had regular maintenance done and all repairs have been done at a Ford
dealership.  The car operated fine for the first year, but then it started
making a "dieseling" noise - it sounded like a diesel truck with a horrible
rattling type noise coming from under the hood.  I first noticed the noise
while on summer holidays when driving on the highway in third gear at approx
120 km/hr.  At first it made this noise sporatically, but I really noticed
it when going uphill in 4th gear.  It sounded almost as though something was
loose under the hood.  I took it to the dealership and they checked
everything out and said that everything was fine.

Over the past few years, the noise has gotten progressively worse, and now
it often makes that dieseling noise - almost every day.  The car very often
makes the noise when starting off in first gear from a standstill (like at a
set of lights or stop sign).  It also makes the noise on the highway, and
the noise lasts longer than it originally did.  Shifting down to a lower
gear seemed to help, but then the revs were way too high.

I have brought this issue up with my dealerships numerous times  - every
time the car has been in for servicing and repairs, but they were never able
to duplicate the noise (of course).  One of the service managers even had
the nerve to tell me that I was just not driving the  car properly, and that
I was not letting it rev high enough!  I think that 130 km/hr in third and
fourth gear is revving it high enough...

Anyway, I am hoping that you have maybe heard of this happening to someone
else and that you might have ideas as to what might be causing my car to
make this horrible noise.  I am starting to worry that my car is slowly
self-destructing!

I would really appreciate any information that you might be willing to share
with me.  Feel free to reply to me at this address.

Thank you very much.

From Helvin Antony on 14 August 2001:

Hello,

I just visited your site, and found it informative. I recently bought an
used Black 1995 Mustang GT. 5.0L The user guide did not come with it. So I
do not have much needed information about the details of this car, regarding
the specification (especially about the engine) and services in the middle
east.

Couple of days back I bought four new tires (Yokohama 235R17) for it. It
might be too late, but I would appreciate if you could tell what tire size
is better for this car. is there any problem if I put the same..

From A Guy Under Lots of Pressure on 11 August 2001:

hello, i recently came across your page when looking for info on installing
an oil pressure guage..that dual sender is a great idea and i made one for my
98 cobra.  the only problem however is my new autometer guage reads over 75
psi at idle!!  i grounded it on a bracket which is bolted to the block, i
didnt need to make one or relocate the senders.  any ideas about this high
psi or does the sender only work on a gt?  thanks for any info

From Greg Out on 10 August 2001:

Hello,

Got a 98' mustang, want to change the H pipe to the Tri-D one, wondering
where I can get one. Also, you got any advice on the 4.10 gear ratio parts?

Need some hookups possibly.

-=-Greg out

From Alfredo Demartino on 4 August 2001:

     HI,

    I WAS WONDREING WHAT A THE POSSIBILITIES OF ADDING A 
DUAL EXAUST SYSTEM TO     AN 83 MUSTANG GLK 3.8 V6. I KNOW 
IT CAN BE DONE WITH THE LATE MODEL MUSTANG
    SUCH AS THE 84 AND UP BUT I CAN NEVER SEEM TO GET ANY 
INFO ON THE 83,WAS           WONDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME OUT.

    MIKE SPONZA
    MONTREAL CANADA

From Mark Phillips on 2 August 2001:

Will your fix still work on a 98 Cobra?

From Matt Jurich on 18 July 2001:

Hey,

Just read your story about the 'stang's shift kit installation.  I was
wondering, how long did it take?  I'm considering it and wanted to be able
to keep my shop in check on hours.

Thanks much!

From Jeff Oliver on 9 July 2001:

I recently installed a set of ford racing underdrive pulleys on my 95 mustang 
GT and like usual..my voltmeter seems to lower about everytime i slow down or 
stop down to around 9-11 volts. And every so often it will die and I have to 
put it back in park and restart it. I am running the mach stereo system along 
with some other subwoofers so thats most likely another cause, but I was 
wondering if you know of any device which can bolt,snap,plug, or wire on or 
into anywhere on the car to help this problem. I have read about such a 
product once in an aftermarket magazine, but i cant seem to find it now. I 
would greatly appreciate it.  Thanks Again.                               

From Rene Castro on 5 July 2001:

Hey..i have a 1998 mustang gt..and its a aode and it sucks.i have  been
wanting to put a shift kit. i want to know how to get harder and firmer
shifts.and where do i get this stuff at to make it shift harder...

From Brian Scott on 12 June 2001:

Hi,
I read about you putting in the 180 degree thermostat on the 95 GT and i decided to
give it a try on mine.  The only problem is my car seems to be running warmer.  When
it gets warmed up now the temperature gage is in the middle, around the "R" in
"normal".  With the stock 192 degree thermostat it seemed to run on the left side of
the "O".  The only think i can think of is that the thermostat could be in backwards,
would that cause this kind of symptom, or would it not open at all causing the car to
overheat?  Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks a lot 

From Patrick D. Burke on 5 June 2001:

  I want to install the newer 4.6L 260 H.P. engine from the 4.6L 215 H.P 
engine. I was told by another person that I will need to change or reprogram 
the computer. Could you add a little insight on this for me. I beleive that the 
person that told me this is full of it.    

From Yanni on a Handout on 3 June 2001:

Hey I have a 2000 v6 mustang and I have tried your way and another way to make my own 
cold air induction system but it has proven to be too hard for a 17 year old kid that
has no idea what he is doing.
I have made many many trips to the hardware store but nothing seems to work.
you said that MAC sells one already made?
can you tell me where I can purshase this? a website or something?
thanks so much.
Also since you sound like a pro can you tell me where the throttle cable in the
engine compartment is?  I need to take that off so I can shorten the slack in the
petal. here is where I got the idea
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/99pedals.htm
maybe you can edit this pic of my engine with a pointer to where it is and send it
back to me thanks again!! Mustangs RULE!!!!

From Joe Blandino on 18 May 2001:

Hi. My name is Joe and I have a 92'mustang LX 5.0 convertible. I installed
3.73 gears, powertorque hi-po clutch cold air induction 160 degree
thermostat, power pulleys, and an awesome exhaust system.  I want to put a
cobra intake manifold on it.  Should I get a 65mm throttle body.  Also,
should I change my fuel pump and injectors. If so, then what size? Thank
you.

From Joel the Stangbanger on 27 April 2001:

I have a 1993 5.0 Mustang GT and I have an autometer OIL PRESSURE and TEMP 
gauge and I'm not sure on how to install them.. I have a pretty good idea on 
how to install the oil pressure gauge, but for the TEMP gauge I do not know 
where I put the coupling (sensor) to.  If you can help me find it that would 
be greatly appreiciated.

From Troy Smith on 18 April 2001:

Hi, I have a question about the mach tweeters.  I found someone who is
selling theirs and he was talking about  how he doesn't have the pods or
something.  My question is:  Can i not just pop off my side mirror covers
and screw on the mach tweeters in their place, or do i need these "pods"
or a mounting kit??  

Another thing, I am installing fog lights on my mustang which is
suppossedly max wired so it should already have the wiring in place.   So
i checked under the fender and sure enough there were the wires to hook
the lights up.  Then i pulled the console out to see where the wire for
the switch was (under the coin holder next to my conv. top switch right?)
 But all the wires go somewhere, there were none that looked like you
could hook a switch up to using a connector or anything.  So do i need to
splice the fog light switch into my convertible top switch wire or
something?  If you can answer these i would be very greatful, Thank you,

From Terri Olson on 13 April 2001:

on your mustang where does your filter sit. is it in front of the tire
or below the battery tray right in back of the headlight.

From Glenn Standard on 30 March 2001:

I also have a '95 Mustang with an oil gauge that doesn't work. Can a test be made to
the dash gauge to verify if it is history? I installed a new sensor on the engine and
verified that the wire leading to the dash had no breaks in it (ohm meter test). Yes,
it was a real bear replacing the original sensor.

Thanks for your help!!

From David Plotts on 14 March 2001:

I am in the process of doing the X-pipe and cat back, and have a couple ways
to remove the stock junk a little easier.

As far as cutting the pipes, you can also support the body of the car with
jackstands, and lower the axle with a floor jack.  I opted for the sawsall
with a metal blade, it took 20 seconds per pipe.

For those rubber insulators and the nubs on the ends of the hangers, use a
large pair of channel lock pliers, one side on the nub, the other side on
the opposite end of the rubber.  One squeeze and it's halfway out, and you
don't risk punching a hole in your fender with a screwdriver.  Oh yeah, lots
of WD-40.  Great article, thanks for posting it!

Oh, one more, air tools or an electric impact wrench make the job MUCH
easier.

From James Benson on 31 January 2001:

Hello.  My name is James and I have a question.  I currently have a 351 windsor and 
want to build it into a 427 windor.  I think that I need to bore the block .30 over
but I am lost on what else I need to do to achieve this.  This is my first build-up,
but not my first build.  I have rebuilt engines before, I have just never built-up an
engine.  Any information you could contribute would be very helpful.  Thank you for
your time.

From Frank Metzel on 14 January 2001:

Hi,
I like your website. Thought I'd throw an unusual question to ya. 
My son's 66 mustang, 6 cyl., 3 manual. Horn would not toot unless you steped on 
the clutch pedal. So we cleaned all elec. contacts and adjusted the push bar on the 
steering wheel. the horn works great. 
Now at night when clutch pedal is pressed, some sparking occurs between the 
pushbar and the steering wheel. Well you can see it at night.
Also, when the car sits undriven for 3 days, the batterie goes dead.
Question, what the hell does the clutch pedal have to do with the horn?
Any solution to repair this would be much appreciated.

Anyway I am a new fan of your site.

From Nick Egbert on 24 November 2000:

Hello I own a 96 mustang.  It is a V6 and I was
aonting to put dual exhaust on the car.  If possible i
was wasnting it to be true duals.  I was informed that
flowmaster puts out a bolt on kit for the V6 mustangs.
 Is this true and if you so do you either sell them or
have any information on the kits?  If you have any
usefull information please let me know.
Thank You, 
Blacksnake_96

From Sam I Am on 18 November 2000:

man, you guys have a pretty badass website. i own a '95 mustang gt that i 
want to make faster. im constantly told that i should have gone with a z28, 
but i love my mustang. im in my last year of high school (finally!), and have 
a part time job, which barely pays insurance, loan, gas. obviously i havent 
much extra money for mods. im probobally going to use your instructions on 
the custom cold air induction pretty soon. also, im interested in how the 
supercharger worked out on josh's mustang. could you send me some information 
on that? thanks for your time. 
 

From Bill Katsouris on 10 October 2000:

I just got my first pony.  83' Convertible - GLX, but now has 302, 3.23
rear, edelbrook 4 bl carb.   But...                 Boo hoo it's an
automatic- tough to find V8, Conv, and 5-speed.  Now, this is a cruising
car, but it is missing the punch when needed.  I know there are somethings I
can do, short of replacing the trans. to improve the horses, but where do I
start?  Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

From JR (so who shot you?) on 20 August 2000:

I have a 1985 mustang notchback, with a 351w in it. My problem is every time when
moving and you make a left hand turn you lose all lights,dash parking
headlights...ect.can you help.  JR  
my email adress is jugheads2117@yahoo.com

From A Lonely and Confused Mustang Owner on 16 August 2000:

i just recently bought a flowmaster american thunder cat back system for my 
96 gt. Is it necessary to put heatshields on the mufflers and is there a need 
to replace the the little ball joint cup thing (sorry i dont know the name) 
that is between the cats and the muffler pipes--its used instead of gaskets i 
think. any info would help greatly im no goin to put the system on till i get 
all of my facts straight. thanks very much and keep up the good work on the 
web site

From Darren C. Lunson on 28 July 2000:

i just wanted to say thanks for the instructions for the cold air induction thing for 
mustangs.  i have a 92 5.0 and i recently put on a k&n filter and it sure was sucking 
in lots of hot air.  the filter itself was actually getting hot.  anyway i used some
of the ideas you had for a homemade cold air induction and improvised some parts 
since my car obviously is different.  i used regular 3" abs pipes and 2 90degree 
elbows and a sheet of aluminum (you sure was right about it being sharp)  and i put 
it all together and it works great.  after driving around for a while i can feel the 
difference by just touching the filter... it's a lot cooler.  i'm gonna try it out at
the track this weekend. thanks

From Jason Garrison on 13 July 2000:

Hello! :-)
     I have a 95 Mustang V6 (I know, I know, you don't have to say it)
and I am looking for fairly detailed instructions on how to install the
factory fog lamps.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Bill Walsh on 7 July 2000:

hello how are ya?.....i've got a  question. I have a 96 mustang gt and just 
removed a 160 degree thermostat from it, but can't seem to find a replacement 
anywhere...i've tried a 195....ran too hot the elec. fan was on constantly.  
tried a 180 runs cool on the gauge but the elec fan comes on after about 20 
mins. of driving & stays on contant.
when i had the 160 in, fan never came on. iwas wondering if you know where i 
could find a 160?     any help would be much appreciated....thank you

From Chris Boehm on 1 June 2000:

    I have a question for you. I own a 1995 Ford Mustang GT convertible, 
automatic transmission.  My friend owns a 2000 BMW 328i hardtop, with a 2.8 
liter 6 cylinder engine and an automatic transmission.  The 0-60 times are 
very similiar, and I was just wondering which car you thought would win in a 
race.  Thanks very much for your time.

From Patrick Atagi on 7 May 2000:

I tried setting up a time to meet with you and Bry to discuss putting
the kit together, but our schedules never matched.  Let's review your
initial statement in your webpage.  We can send you a a finished
product, you didn't list a price at the time, so I asked.  If the final
product was $45 and the components were $35, sure I'd pay you to do it.
You know how and you've made the mistakes and learned from them.  I have
no idea how long it would take to do this, so it was at least worth
asking.  Laziness?  I work 80 hours a week and travel.  If I can do
something for fun on the weekend that takes a couple of hours sure, I'll
do it.

From Someone Who Won't Admit to Owning a Mustang on 28 April 2000:

I set up a cold air induction system, that ends with a K&N filter in the fender. But
it seems that I lost a lot of pick up.  It just doesn't get up and go.  I'm not sure
if the engine is getting air to fast or getting to much.  What am I not doing right?
Stock felt better.  Right now, I only have flowmasters and a superchip installed.
Thanks....
P.S   I  have a 1998 GT automatic

From Ryan the Underage Drunk on 4 April 2000:

How much difference will one of those make on 0-60, 1/4 mile times, midrange, 
and top end?

From Young Yoo on 30 March 2000:

Hey,
I'm just wondering, are the CAI kits still up for sale?
If so, how much is it going for? I drive a 1998 mustang GT.
And where can I buy the K&N kit that goes with the CAI?
I'd appreciate a response!
Thanks!

From Patrick Atagi on 15 March 2000:

I'm interested in purchasing the kit to replace the stock air box in my 95 
mustang GT.  Please send me more information such as price, shipping 
address, method of payment accepted.
Thanks in advance!

From Eric the Chicken on 13 March 2000:

    I have been wanting to install a battery relocation kit for my 94 Mustang 
GT. I show the car at car shows and moving the battery to the rear will help 
clean the engine comaprtment up. Plus give me better traction for when she 
goes to the track.
I was reading in an old Muscle Mustang and it said that I would have to 
install an external shut-off switch. I have gone through pics of lots of cars 
with kits in them and I don't see any shut off switches. So, could I still 
install this kit without having to install the switch? Could I install the 
switch inside the car? If you have any ideas or any place I can go to with 
this problem, please write back. Thanks.

From Peter Galusha on 10 February 2000:

thanks for the info on the cat-back install on the stang'.  I'm fixin' to do the same
to my 95 GTS.  You said the sound was great, not to loud, but enough to turn heads. 
What about with headers and off-road H-pipe?  Do you think this would be too
aggravating as a daily driver.  I'm struggling with the choice, 2 or 3 chamber.  I
know the other exhaust mods have got to make some difference.  What do you guys
think.        

If you could take a minute, I would appreciate your input.

From Billy Nobody on 7 February 2000:

I have a 94GT with the same bulbous K and N filter. How much would you charge 
to make a kit? Thanks for the info, Billy.

From Bill Your Name on 28 January 2000:

Hey Wrenchheads...

Can you tell a fellow wrencher approxiamtely how long the braided line
should be if hooked up exactly as you did in your article. I too have a
'95 5.0 that I am doing alot of the exact things you guys have already
done !! Thanx alot for the tip sheets !!!

SeeYa
//Bill//

From Jenssen Gagnon on 20 January 2000:

Hi I saw your cold air induction system on the net and I'm very interested
in it. I have a 1995 mustang gt and I would like to know if this system
really makes a difference....Also I'd like to know how much your asking for
it and if you can send it to me over in Quebec, Canada...

Do you sell other performance parts for Mustangs ?

From Tom Yentzer on 25 November 1999:

As a mustang owner, I'ved learned a lot from your garage. Can you help
me with injector info. Can you tell me about procedures for cleaning and
testing injectors off the car? Any on-line sources for this info?

From Louis Martinez on 17 November 1999:

Hey thanks allot. I was able to do it. only half the wiring was there
(indoor) so I had to remove the wire on the switch to the relay and had
to connect it to the relay that came in the kit. (they are pilot lights,
oblong, a perfect fit.) and anywise they light up by themselves or with
low/high beams (cool) and it uses the factory switch illumination and
everything thanks allot. 

From Louis Martinez on 12 November 1999:

I see that the mustang comes wired for the convertible even if it is a
coupe. My question is if it comes with the wiring for the fogs even if it is
a 6 cyl. (1997 mustang convertible). I have the switch that I bought from
the dealer and was wondering if I could use that wiring and add aftermarket
fogs. thanks

From Eric Saldana on 16 August 1999:

I'm not sure you have had any question like this but I've got a problem and 
I need someone's help.  I have a 97 Mustang but that's where the problem is. 
  It's a 3.8 V6.  I belong to a club called V6P.  (V6 Power and also called 
Team Six Pack)  I found your website because I'm trying to get dual exhaust 
on it.  I called Saleen and they will send me a GT takeoff cat back system 
of $40 pluse $60 for shipping by truck.  (UPS wouldn't do it)  But I need to 
know what's next?  I don't want to get the adapter kit for the V6 that lets 
me put duals on it and they say I can get an H-Pipe for it.  But I don't 
know if the GT cat back system would come with it or would I have to get one 
made?  This is what I want.....GT takeoff exhaust with 2 chamber Flowmasters 
with 2 1/2 chrome tips.  I think it'll sound sweet!!  But it's my first shot 
at it and I don't want someone to mess it up.  (I'm turning 18 this Tuesday 
so this really IS my first shot)  Well thanks for all the help in advance...

From Dan Turlik on 29 July 1999:

No offense but you guys have done some [butt]-backwards things in your
stories/tech  section.  Examples:

1.  Removing the alternator to take it to a shop to get the pulley off.
Why not drive to the shop, have them losen the pulley on the car and
install the new pulley there?  Or at least losen it while on the car and
then loosley tighten it and drive home.

2.  When replacing the thermostat, you used a vacuum cleaner to create a
vacuum in a bottle to drain the coolant from the drain hole. Why not just
fill the hose with water, hold one end with your finger and, put the other
in the radiator cap opening and let the miracle of gravity do its thing.

What's worse is this stuff is up on a web page for some other fool to
repeat.  Why not ask the group here before you try something and get some
GOOD advice and then put it up on your web page.