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© 2001-2004 Brian F. Schreurs
Even we have a disclaimer.

Well, whatever, if you take the time to write us, we'll try to find an answer for you. Unfortunately, that answer might be "ummmmm.... dunno!!" but at least we'll be honest about it.

If you'd like to make a Cave Drawing of your own, please report to the Main Cave.

From Randy Doehne on 9 January 2004:

My friend is working on a 69 super bee  Problems started with to much charging to
the battery.  After redoing the wiring he had noticed with  the engine off  when he
turns on the lights (dome, parking lights)  the amp gage deflects to postive is this
normal? He is afraid to start the car he doesn't want to fry another battery. 
Thanks 

From Matthew Nichols on 22 December 2003:

I have a 1940 Dodge, 4 door sedan with a flat 6.  The body is in great shape and I
have most of the engine.  I am looking for a service manual or at least the
pertinant diagrams.  Also, if you know of an auto club for a 1940 Dodge, an
individual who is knowlegable about 1940 Dodges, or how to go about getting the info
needed to get parts, service manual as well as the twirks of the car in general. 
The car was my great grandfathers and is now mine, so I won't be selling or anything
but I could sure use some help locating the above referenced items.  I'd like to
take my grandfather for a ride in it before he passes away.  I'd sure appreciate any
and all assistance you could provide.  I'd also like to know about any and all
plausible possible modifications.

From Melinda Brooks on 8 December 2003:

i own a 1992 dodge spirit and am trying to install a new stereo in it-the new one
comes with only 4 different colored wires(white,gray,purple,green)-the stereo that
came in the car has 9 wires(blue&red,purple,orange,yellow with black stripes,green
with orange stripes,blue&purple,green,blue&white,yellow&brown)-through specialty
manuals and instructions that came with new stereo i have failed to be able to wire
this thing up-can you please tell me how to match the old 9 colors to the new 4
colors-any help will be greatly appreciated

                                                  thank you for any help

From Jon Ludens on 4 December 2003:

I have a 1997 Ram 1500 with 140000 mi. I am considering buying a chip for it, and am
wondering if anyone has a recommendation? I'm also thinking about rebuilding the
engine next year and am wondering about a cam/chip combo. Last question; How hard
would it be to put one of the newer Hemi engines in? Just found your site and love
it! Jon

From Tony White on 2 December 2003:

I have a 1970 dodge challenger with a 440, it kills every automatic tranny I've
tried so far and I'm starting to wonder, would a 4 speed manual be a better choice ?
And more importantly where can I find the info to tell me how to swap them and what
parts will be  needed ? I need any advice that you can give on this. thank you for
your time ( :

From Joey Hook on 4 November 2003:

  I am in need of a photo showing the fuel line routing from pump to carbs 
onshort ram rb engine.  Preferabally without air cleaners mounted.  Thanks in 
advance.  Mopar on! 

From Carol Murphy on 2 November 2003:

Hello, My name is Carol. I' ve been given a 1979  318 Ram Charger. It has four wheel
drive. No one seems to be able to tell me where the position of the shifter for the
four wheel drive is. Can you help me?
Signed DESPERATE

From Kirby Demoman on 29 October 2003:

318 and 360 heads
I need to ask some about these heads is this the right place.

From Rick Rikster on 20 October 2003:

Hello.
I have recently acquired a 1970 Charger
Body is in good shape.

But car is missing and I need:
The front bumper,
The front grill, with headlight doors
The metal that the front grill and hood latch attached.
The headlight door motor.
(Basically I have the the front fenders, valence, and hood are
there with the car.)

Also that is missing:
Steering wheel
Seats, both front buckets and rear
Back tail-lights.
Front a rear window outside molding

From Jeff Hardt on 6 September 2003:

Just curious if you have any flow info on this later 360 cyl. 308 head (stock or
ported). I was told they were used in the 1987-92 truck motors. Thanks. 

From Rick on 6 September 2003:

Hello,

I am looking for a front and rear bumper for a 1970 Dodge Charger.

Do you know where I can find?

Your response is gratly appreciated

Thanks

From Bob Forster on 1 September 2003:

I have an 85 "E" body New Yorker, on which, the speedometer has stopped
working.
This is the electronic type, (no speedometer cable).
Someone told me that the car has a 110 converter that is used to power the
instrument cluster. True? or not?
Unable to locate it as of yet.
The inst. cluster was replaced with a used one, but still no luck.
Everything in the cluster works, (all the lights light, and the whistles
blow, and the buzzers buzz), except the fuel gauge and the speedometer.
On the original and the replacement.
The car starts and runs fine, everything works, drives ok, just can't tell
how fast i'm going, or how much gas I got.
I have completely dismantled the dash clear to the firewall and can not find
anything that even remotely resembles a problem.
I have a book that has wiring diagrams, but have not been able to locate a
diagram of the speedometer wiring.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Sandie Bee on 13 August 2003:

Help Please. We have a 66 Plymouth Belvedere 383 with a high output oil pump. 
Everything on the car is new, but for some reason all of a sudden there is 0 
oil pressure. The pump is brand new, we even took it off and put an old one on 
and still no oil pressure. We've taken the distributor off and checked the 
gears, and changed the oil filter thinking it might be defective. Chilton book 
tells us nothing and no one seems to have any ideas what to check next. PLEASE 
help.

From John Brosnaham on 11 July 2003:

I certainly would buy a manual if I thought it would help.
I have a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  When I run the A/C the passenger floor 
(rear and front) get flooded with water from the a/c evaporator box.  I have found 
out there is no means of fixing other than pulling the dash and evap box.  
(estimates of 390.00 for labor)
Is there no other alternative?
Thanks for your time and consideration.

From Lewis Green on 7 June 2003:

 HELLO! I AM WANTING TO SWAP OUT THE MOPAR 318 MAGNUM IN MY 1999 DURANGO FOR A MOPAR
360 MAGNUM WITH 380 HP.I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE ANY INFO YOU COULD OFFER ME ON THE
EXACT PRODUCTS I NEED TO DO THIS.I CAN GET A CRATE ENGINE AT A GREAT PRICE.I WOULD
ALSO LIKE TO KNOW WHAT MOST CRATE ENGINES COME WITH.WOULD I HAVE TO BUY AN
OILPAN,COVERS,GASKETS,ETC?THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP.

From Kevin McGee on 4 June 2003:

Hello All:

I inherited a 75 Valiant Custom through marriage and the wife is tired of it. 
It has 72430 ORIGINAL miles, brand new tires and a Pioneer Stereo System. I 
am not a MOPAR enthusiast, nor do I have the time to become one. She is asking 
Blue Book for this antique ($3900.00), but will negotiate with serious 
enthusiasts. The car is tested and runs great! This antique is a four door, original 
blue paint w/ white vinyl top. The tires are Uniroyal Tigerpaw. It has a 
strong 225cid/ Slant 6. I will not sell it to just anybody. And it isn't a beater 
car to get around in. I will not sell it to you, if you are going to destroy 
it.

Kevin McGee

From Randy Pylman on 25 May 2003:

i have 72 cuda that have a 727 tranny i want to swap it out for a 518 tranny does
somebody make a tranny mount

From Vicky Smith on 21 May 2003:

My son loves his 1985 Chrysler Laser 2.2 Auto trans. so when he blew the engine we
tried to get it fixed.  We found a 1986 Chrsyler Laser 2.2 Manual Transmission and
were told by what has now proven to be an unreliable source that it would work just
fine.  We the 86 engine and started to install and found that it will not line up
and we need some sort of a flex plate any suggestions where would be a good place to
get accurate info.  Thanks

From Jim Neer on 14 May 2003:

I  WAS  WONDERING  IF  YOU  COULD  TELL  ME  THE  MEASUREMENTS  OF  THE  
BUMBLE  BEE  STRIPE  SIZE  OF  STRIPE  AND  SPACING  IN  BETWEEN  THE  
STRIPE LET  ME  KNOW  THANKS  JIM

From Mike Arp on 6 May 2003:

Could you please advise the proceedure for remove the rear seat from a 
1967 Belvedere Plymouth B body?

Thanks

From Pastor John on 24 April 2003:

my 95 ram 1500 has had the crank sensor fail 3 times in 3 months. it does 
not shut the engine down, but allows it to idle, to slow to have any power 
for mobility.
the service team can not come up with any reason for the repeated failure. 
can you come up with any possible solutions?

From Shannon Travis on 18 April 2003:

I've got a 1978 Dodge Tradesman van, 3/4 ton with the 360. I think that's the B600
line of Dodge van. Anyway, it runs like a champ but I want better acceleration. Is
there anything I could do, cheaply and easily, to boost acceleration? It runs a
little 'boggy,' know what I mean? Any info greatly appreciated guys!!!!!!

From Trent Verley on 17 April 2003:

i have a question regarding my 95' dodge intrepid, it's the 3.5 litre 24 valve dual
overhead cam engine, but the problem is in my wiring, about a week ago my blinkers
went out. so the first thing i did was change out my fuses, nothing. so i swaped out
the flasher relay, again, nothing. next i took the steering column apart and changed
the blinker/wiper swith out. still nothing. now im an aviation electrician in the
navy and this is basically the same thing, wire goes in component providing
exictation, and comes out to ground. i have no shorts or opens anywhere and i was
wondering if you could give me a little direction in where i should go next in
chasing this gripe down. thank you

From Neil Doughty on 16 April 2003:

I am not sure just how I got here, or even if I am in the right place, 
(I couldn't even figure out how to post a message) but here goes...

I have a 1984 Dodge D250 pickup that I recently replaced the radio in. 
My problem is that while inserting the radio back into the dash, it 
crushed a 7 vacuum line connector that controls the heater/AC air flow. 
The connector was old, and made of some strange substance that had 
deteriorated to the consistency of a rubber band that had been in the 
sun for a couple of years. Anyhow, if it was as simple as connecting the 
green hose to the green hose, and the blue hose to the other blue hose, 
etc., things would be easy, but it appears that Dodge ran out of 
coloring about the time they put that connector in, and there are 7 
black hoses on the other half of the connector (these 7 black hoses 
connect to the defroster, bi-level, heater, A/C control buttons). Short 
of buying another 1984 Dodge D250 for reference purposes, can anyone 
help me figure out which colored hose attaches to which black hose? The 
only one I have successfully deciphered is the vacuum supply hose. Any 
help would be greatly appreciated. (you have my permission to copy and 
paste this on your website if you like.)
Thank you for any help.

From James Williams on 10 April 2003:

I have a 1968 Plymouth Fury. I'm changing intake to convert to a 4 b. 
carb. So, i need a 4 b. carb for a 318, automatic, convertible.Can you 
Help? Thanks

From Richard Greig on 4 April 2003:

Hi,
    Can you send all the info I need put a 440 in a 1996 Dodge 1500 
truck. Wanting to build a sport truck.Send me any other related info or 
links as well.

Thankyou

From David Edmonds on 22 March 2003:

what book do i need to decode a finder tag from a 1968 road runner.
i was trying to figure out what rear end is right for rr, fender tag under ax is 43.
i've looked on the inter net with no luck.
any help would be welcome.

From Paul Jones on 22 March 2003:

Here is some info I thought might be helpfull in updating  the 360 head flow page.

http://www.geocities.com/alwest_83/sbheads

Your welcome

From Jonathan Perkins on 15 March 2003:

hello!

i think your website is excellent and really need help. no not in general, with my
car. 

i recently picked up a 1976 plymouth duster. this is my first mopar, only a chevy and
ford before that. i am restoring the car to factory stock. decoding the vin was of
course no problem, but my problem is decoding the fender tag. every website i have
seen only carried mopars up to 1974, or has very incomplete information. 

classic cars are a big part of my life, and i would love to have the proper
information so im sure to restore the right solid state am fm radio, get just the
right decor package, etc. 

any help you have would be greatly appreciated. if you could point me in the right
direction it would help get the wheels turning on my latest project.

just in case, the fender tage numbers are:

[omitted for privacy]

if you are able to help me it would be so terrific, and if not keep up the good work
on the site, its really great.

From James Jam on 26 February 2003:

92 dodge stealth crate motor

From Steve Einhaus on 13 February 2003:

Hello, we have the W2 performance heads part # p4529446. Can you tell me your opinion
of the econo vs these heads. We are hearing that they are not making the performance
heads anymore. Do you have any insight on this? Thanks for your time.

From Rusty Nicquel on 9 February 2003:

I've ask allot of people and everyone knows what a mopar is but no one 
knows what mopar stands for could you let me know thanks

From Eric Moberg on 7 February 2003:

Just bought a nice 1980 Powerwagon, 4x4, auto 318 2bbl. Would like to get a
little more power for towing, how big a deal is it to change over to a
factory 4bbl manifold and carb??? Throttle linkage, and auto trans stepdown
linkage a problem??

Thanks...just found your site....really enjoyed looking thru!!

From TC on 4 February 2003:

Hello from Italy! I'm in the USAF and need your help.
I'm trying to find a 1969 Dodge Charger owners manual. Do you have any for sale?
Thanks!

From Meredith Miner-Reese on 2 February 2003:

I hope I'm writing to the right email address....I have a question
regarding the wiring harness (under hood) for a 68 Valiant.
On mine, there is ONE bad wire but the plastic connectors that "plug
into" the fire wall are cracked and don't stay "plugged in" all the time
which leaves the car to stop all power while driving it or idleing it
sometimes. 
I've been told that I should just get a new or used wiring harness. This
one COULD be fixed but with the cracked plastic it wouldn't be worth it. 
First question...CAN it be fixed?\
Secondly, do they sell JUST the plastic ends that plug into the fire
wall? I've looked around but no one seems to know what I'm talking
about.
Thanks for any help.

From Cameron Giese on 31 January 2003:

I'm looking for a 1999 or newer dodge intrepid.  I would like a car in 
good condition,including everything but the engine.  I have that.  

From Mary Harader on 30 January 2003:

Hello, I was hoping you could solve my problem. I have an 89 shelby 
daytona that i want to convert to a rwd and stick a small v-8 in such as 
a 340 or 318. something along those lines. But the problem is, that i 
cannot find any kits for the cross members and all the extra's that have 
to be put in in order to make this work. I have looked and looked and 
cannot find a kit. I do know that they were made but of course i cannot 
find any, someone has told me that they do not offer them anymore. 
Someones gotta have something laying around or a simple way of doing it 
yourself. If you could give me any information it would be greatly 
appreciated. Thank you for your time.

From Doug McHam on 29 January 2003:

Hello,
    I too have a '70 Charger with a 318 and 3spd auto and have a couple 
questions.  Have you replaced, or even messed with the bushings for the 
front suspension? (upper and lower control arms and the lower ball 
joints).  Mine REALLY need replacing.  I was wondering if you had any 
advice pertaining to this or know of someone or web site with info on 
this.  I also need to replace the trunk floor (very rusted) and 
replace/patch the passenger side floor pan (two rust holes).  Any help 
would be appreciated.
    Also, I wanted to let you know the articles about the shock swaps 
were very helpful.  I needed to replace mine for the same reasons you 
did.  I ended up not having as much trouble with the rears as you since 
I knew what to expect...and the rears had been replaced before by 
previous owners, so the bolt and stud on the mounting plate came loose 
pretty easy.
    Thanks in advance!

From Bill Crowell on 27 January 2003:

Dear Ones: My present resto project is a 1962 Plymouth Valiant V-200.  Please tell
me, why cannot one easily install spindles designed for 10" drums and then switch to
disc brakes on the front of such an early, 1960-62, Valiant?  The swap seems to be
done only on later models, but I never understood why.  I would really appreciate
your thoughts on this.  Attached is a picture of me and my last resto, a 1922 Dodge
Bros. touring.

From Gee Walker on 27 January 2003:

I need a transfer case for a 93' doge dakota 4x4, 318 v8.

From Pete Dye on 23 January 2003:

Ignition timing on a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda wit a 318
Does any one know what I need to set my timing to on this car? Please 
help!

From a guy with a lead head on 23 January 2003:

Hi i am looking for a 1970 dodge charger to restore.  The dodge charger 
i think is the best looking car out there and i would love to own one of 
my own.  So anyone who could locate one for me that i could buy for a 
reasonable price that would be great.  email me back  at 
metalhead142002@msn.com thanks again.

From Jimmy Parker on 8 January 2003:

i need to know if the 1977,318 heads will work on a 1978,360 and what 
compression they will bring my engine up to if any,it is 30over and has 
just been built,i have a set of 360 heads but the 318s are rebuilt and 
ready to go on,will i have a problem with to much compression,thanks for 
your time,please send an answer to my email add.at jplp29742@yahoo.com 
thanks again for your time

From Larry the Van Guy on 7 January 2003:

Hello.I own a 1978 Dodge van,318 engine,automatic transmission.I forgot
to write down where on the back of the replacement alternator where the
red wire and the green wire goes.I know where the battery wire goes
though.On the back of the alternator which I bought at a local Autozone
auto parts store,there is a male lug at the 12 o'clock position and
another male lug between the 1 and 2 o'clock position,I know the battery
wire goes at the 3 o'clock position.The red and green wires have female
plugs on them.I was wondering if you can tell me where the red and green
wires connect to the alternator.Thank you for any information about
this.

       ......Larry  

Cattle Raid Of Cooley

From Lee Emerling on 13 December 2002:

Hello,

I found your page https://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/360cylhd.html
via a search on W2 heads on Google. The following comment is quoted from
your website: "Now, everyone always says that cylinder head numbers are not
comparable, that the same set of heads can flow differently on different
benches. That is like saying that dragstrip timeslips from two different
tracks are not comparable. While it is true that you wouldn't want to treat
the exact numbers as gospel, having a look at the flow table at least gives
a general idea of what certain heads are capable of producing."

This is misleading. You cannot compare flow numbers unless you know that
they are flowed at the same depression, for example 28" of water, which is
the standard now. What if one of the heads was flowed at 25" or even 20"? I
know that when the W2's came out, the standard was 10". A higher depression
will show subtle changes in port flow more so than a lower depression. Also,
your comment about drag strip times is inaccurate, too. What if one track is
at sea level and another is at 5000 ft. elevation? Can you compare the two?
No, not without correcting for altitude.

From Eric Hall on 11 December 2002:

I have a head with 29L and P3 are the only thing cast under the valve cover.
Any clues?

360? 318? 340?

I do have the other head with 360 596 cast in the head but do not think this
is the mate for the other.]

Engine is a rebuild from a long time ago.  1988 was when it was rebuilt from
RHS in Memphis Tenn.

Thanks

Eric G. Hall
www.BackgroundsandWallpapers.com

From Catman on 3 December 2002:

dose anyone have a wiring diagram or wiring colors for installing a remote starter on
a 94' eagle talon?

From "Ocean Fool" on 2 December 2002:

I have a 71 Plymouth duster with a 318 la engine. I need to replace the brass 
freeze plugs but i don't know the size. can you help 

thanks

From Gary Beck on 13 November 2002:

To whom it may concern:

                   Would you happen to know the offset and the widest rear 
wheels you can put on a 68 roadrunner and still keep them in the fender?

                  Thanks Gary

From Zeb Aroo on 11 November 2002:

Hi, I just turned 16 and I am looking to give my Dodge 
a little boost. I am looking at a pair of Hooker 
Headers and they only come in a Dodge Durango/Dakota, 
V8 5.2L/5.9L    And I was thinking that maybe they 
didn't put up a Dodge ram because people don't really 
use them to put high performance parts in them but. 
Anyway's, do you know if they would fit my Dodge ram 
318 V8 5.2L engine if its mint for a Dakota 318 V8 
5.2L engine? Thanks for your help... Zeb

From Muffy on 7 November 2002:

                     Hello,  I recently found that afriend I know (long time) 
has one of these put up in a barn. It is not restored....     I told him he 
might have a real " GOODIE' I told him I would try to research a bit for 
him.........I can't remember engine...but will get #,s  off car soon.
                                    thank you very much!  If it has value he 
may need the finacial help he may need. Again thank you   

From Miranda Elkins on 3 November 2002:

Hello!  My name is Miranda Elkins.  I was wondering if you would know, by
chance, how to get a hold of some chrome for a 65' Coronet 500?  My father has
just purchased one, and needs to fix a few places.  He needs chrome to go above
the back tires, and on the trunk.  If you can help, please let me know.
Thank you

From John Predgen on 25 October 2002:

Keep the Charger stuff rolling! Looks good, how about an update?

From Jim Lokie on 24 October 2002:

Hi.  I've been looking at your story and pictures about Adja.  While I got
the car's name, I'm not sure of the human's, but it looks like it might be
Brian.

My name's Jim, and I'm interested in Adja because she's almost exactly like
O.C. Spitfire, my 1940 Windsor coupe.  O.C. was purchased by my great uncle
after the first nine months of his life.  He was given to me and my brother
when we were still in jr. high school.  I recently brought him home after
he had been sitting on my dad's farm for about 10 years.  Right now, he's
in about the same shape as Adja looks to be -- a little better in some
places; a little worse in others.  And it looks like I'm in about the same
place you are with the restoration -- looking at what's there and what
isn't, and working on him a little at a time.

O.C.'s had a few different names over the years that I've known him.  But
none of them really ever stuck, so we just always referred to him as the
Old Chrysler.  I've just recently shortened that to O.C.  My wife added
"Spitfire" from the lettering embossed on the head.  Hence, the name.  (No,
sadly, it's not the original engine.  It's still a mopar in-line six, but
it's out of a 51 Chrysler.  A loss attributable to inexperience and lack of
foresight.  But that's another story.)  O.C.'s original color was also
grey, but he's black now (at least what's left of the paint is black).  He
does, however, have a back seat with about 3 inches of leg room.  Good for
small kids and "stuff," but not much else.

I couldn't resist writing you because in the 40 or so years I've known
O.C., I've never seen another '40 Chrysler coupe.  I can send you some
pictures and a story if you're interested, and I'd enjoy sharing progress
stories and resources.  If you're interested, just respond to this e-mail.

From Jerry O'Brien on 23 October 2002:

How do I find information on installing a turbocharged 2.2 litre engine
from a 1984 plymouth Laser, swaping to a 1984 Dodge Caravan?
Thanx

From D.D. Torii on 15 October 2002:

I have a "67" Belvedere II and would like to replace rusted out exhaust system
with new better performing better sounding exhaust system but iI don't know
anything about what's better and what is just average I hope you can help me
out.

I replaced 318 w/ 360 and in process of replacing transmission. Tomarrow I would
like to check into exhaust systems and I've been told to get flowmaster exhaust
and headers, what would your choices be in choosing an exhaust system?

From Dussan Urh on 22 September 2002:

Hello!
 
My name is Dussan and I am looking for a damaged viper rt/10. It should be a
total damage. Can You please help me find the right car for me. I am asking you
for some pictures and descriptions of those cars. Could you please send me the
e-mail adresses of those sellers, or just pictures and prises.
  
Please send me an e-mail to next adress: urh.com@email.si

From Ryan Jen on 18 September 2002:

I currently have a built 440 backed by a 4-speed in my "stock" class '72 D300
power wagon. My problem is I am moving to the modified class with my 505cid
monster I need someone who sells or makes headers. Engine builder says 2.125''
primary 3.5 to 4'' collector. ANY help in pointing me in the right direction
will be appreciated.

From Ryan Jen on 18 September 2002:

I am currently have a ' 72 D300 440 With the bottom end all done to Hemi oiling
specs. This truck is for stock 4wd truck pulls where the rules say it hs to be
stock. Currently an engine is being built in Chicago. It is 505cid it will have
much of what i have in wy current but with much  more cam. My problem is I need
to find a manufacter tyhat will assemble me a set of headers.My proplem is I'm
backed by a 4-speed and it is difficult to find them. ANY help or suggestion
would greatly be appreciated.

From Kevin Condon on 16 September 2002:

I am looking for a Air Grabber hood for a 71-72 Road Runner. I need some help
locating one please show me the way to locating one. Please...

From Carl Sr DiFrancesco on 13 September 2002:

 have a 1984 dodge van 318 withe 4spd 0d manual trans (a-833) which grinds gears
 most every time i try to put in 3rd gear and jumps out of gear whenever I let
 down on the throttle. It also feels like a dull thud especially when shifting
 into 1st. Any ideas? Also, would an np435 4spd from a pickup or an ax-15
from a 1993-93 239 v6 van fit?

From Carl Sr DiFrancesco on 5 September 2002:

I have a 1984 dodge van 318 with a 4spd od manual trans (a-833) which grinds
gears or stays idle most every time i try to put in 3rd gear and jumps out of
gear whenever I let down on the throttle. It also feels like a dull thud
especially when shifting into 1st. Any ideas? Also, would an np435 4spd from a
pickup or an ax-15 from a 1993-93 239 v6 fit?

From L.R. waters on 31 August 2002:

--> Owner must relinquish project due to health problems.

Great $$Opportunity$$
Are You A Dodge Daytona Turbo Sports Car Enthusiast?
1986 Dodge Daytona Turbo 2.2 Litre Fuel Enjected
Hatchback Sports Car For Sale - White exterior / Cream interior

This car has been babied, lavished upon and is ready to cherry out! 
Already 95% restored to factory new condition. Brand new set
of Kumo sports car tires with 50,00 mile warranty, all new hoses & belts,
new battery under warranty, new radiator & water pump, new cyc joints, new
brakes all around, new u-joint, new timing belt, just tuned, new SONY stereo
AM/FM cassette player with 4 speakers front and back, AC/heater works great,
new fuses, original paint still good, doors and windows good, hatchback has
new hydraulics and works like new, rear window wipers & defroster, 125,000
original miles, second owner, with all complete records, transmission like new.
Front bucker seats and dashboard like new, windshield perfect, all windows
perfect. Fuel injectors just cleaned, engine just flushed, new plugs,
distributor cap and spark plug wires, all fluids just changed, excellent turbo
performance and engine compression. She flys. Nice turbo performance. Nice
factory aluminum wheels too - see photo at end. [removed]

She needs 3 things done to be perfect:  new clutch, restore some upholstery
on back bucket seats, repair slight dent in front right fender. This car will be
collectible in just a few short years, looks and runs great. Have seen similar
make / model vehicles on ebay selling fully restored for $9,000 to $15,000.00+

$2850.00 OBO usd - cashier's check or money order only.
Serious inquiries only - Call 760.369.0976 or
email: bluewolf.info@verizon.net - ask
for LR Waters. Palm Springs CA usa

From Joshua Johnson on 16 August 2002:

I am trying to find out if the crank shaft from a 440 , will stuff in a
400 block with out mods or maybe i will have to grind rod bolts or block i dont
really know and what rods would be my best choice , I am trying to get as many
cubic inches as i can This is my first chrysler motor mod , so any help would
be greatly appreciated.

From Ricky Hall on 13 August 2002:

could you tell me where the neg. switch mounts under the hood on 68&69 coronets?
  Thanks!!!!

From Nick Martin on 6 August 2002:

Hello my name is Nick Martin ,and I've recently found a '72 Charger R/T do you have
any information if you please e-mail it thank you.

From Robert Hunter on 3 August 2002:

Recently converted 69 Charger with 318 to 440 engine.  Looking for a transmission
kickdown spring 12" long.  Thanks.

From Mel Clark on 30 July 2002:

Hi:   I have been wrenching for over 40 years and am stumped..I have a
28 ft pace arrow (1978) with the dodge 440-1.  I put on your
recommended intake manifold..r.v. cam set, and a set of hooker
headers.also put
on a carter hi-pro pump recommended by you along with the powermaster
alt. single wire hookup. Had the engine balanced to the best of the
machine shops ability..ie .all rotating parts..plus a fluiddamper
..Problem:
I now havw5,000 miles on everything..no oil usage...runs great for
about 1/2 hour or until i hit any kind of incline..downhill..flatland
fine...under pull it starts to backfire..and acts like a vapor
lock..runs
out of fuel and dies..sit 20-30 minutes..good to go until...bought an
electric pump..tried it with and without the carter pump in series..put
on
and took off a fuel pressure regulater..set at diff. settings 2-5 psi.
tried all this at 100-150 mile intervals..this didn't start until
around 4500 miles..had an edel. 800 on took off put on my 650from my
truck..was suggested to run the 800 4% lean..did this after putting it
back
on..still have the problem..help!!!I even went so far as to run all new
3/8 fuel line with the minimum amount of bends and as far from the heat
as possible..i.e...outside the frame ..up and around the
fenderwell..minimum usage of rubber hose..new switching valve..all new
filters
(twice)..I am stumped..PLEASE..any ideas???  Mel CLARK..THANKS p.s.
even set
the timing with a vacuum guage..no vacuum leaks..and valves all check
out good..with a tester..

From Jerry Fleetwood on 28 July 2002:

I have a l937 chrysler sedan and would like to restore it, but don't know where to
start first.  Can u tell me should I concentrate on the body first or the engine. 
and where could i find parts, etc.  Many thanks.  Jerry Fleetwood

From Eric Freeman on 27 July 2002:

Gents,
I have a 70 Challenger 440 R/T, and have the fender tag but not the
build sheet. The fender tag specifies FC7 for the plum crazy purple, V1X
for the black vinyl roof, and V68 which is body side sport stripe --
delete. Does this mean that the car came with a bumblebee stripe, or no
stripes and just the R/T logos on the left front and right front under
the Challenger script ??

Thanks

From Gail Barwise on 20 July 2002:

peter macfadyen here making a vey quick message
 how can u send that alternator to prince edward island for free?  I need it  so I
 can put it on this  girls 19 70 charger i am a master diesel mechanic and if it is
 bad ill put a kit in it
this one will be a spare alternator if the other one  lets go. mailing adress is
peter macfadyen  charlottetown  Prince Edward  Island  Canada  postal code is  C1E
1H1. HEY LOOK ON THE MAP IM ABOVE NOVA SCOTIA  on the map
thanks.

From Ross Ulrich on 13 July 2002:

Gentlemen (and perhaps Ladies as well!),

Trying to help a friend pull the codes on his 1997 Stratus; have tried holding the
odometer button down while turning the ignition to run; this does run some sort of
gauge diagnostic, but no codes; any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
                Ross (for Kevin!)

From Ryan Girard on 12 July 2002:

hi
im looking for a 69-74 barracuda kit car . i was wondering if u could tell where i
can get one or if they even make them any information would be grealy appreciated
thanks for your time

From Ian Fraser on 10 July 2002:

G'day, great web site. I'm looking for some info I'm hoping you can help me with.
My question is was a 440 ever built  just called a BLACK MOTOR that was the same
dimensions externally as a 383 big block v8, & if so, did these motors make it into
Dodge Pheonix's FOR EXPORT& sent to AUSTRALIA?
I currently own two Australian built [assembled] dodges ,both are 4 door sedans & RHD
,ours are closely related to the Canadian Dodge Phoenix apparently. One is a 67
pillerless ,4 door hardtop ,v8 383 engine with auto transmission .No mystery there.
BUT the other is a limited edition 400 series 1969 pillerless 4 door sedan , with
dash plaque registering the vehicle as no 63 of 400.It's supposed to have a 383 big
block , but was sold to me as a 440 black motor . both the motors [ie 383 in the 67 &
440 in  the 69 measure up as identical sizes to each other/which seems to make no
sense as the block deck height should be higher on the 440?Or is there a 440 that was
bored up from a 383 rather than stroked up to a magnum..The 383 engine number is at
the top front of block behind the distributor & the pretend ? 440 's is on the pan
rail RHS lower block, forward of centre, just above the sump parting line [which is
where the 440 number  is supposed to be? ]The number is not legible however as the
stamping is too light.
The 400 Series are 2 ft longer than the normal Dodge models, have a concave rear
screen & tuck, pleat bone cloth & velour interiors.
Hoping to be enlightened.

From fuzzy Robin on 8 July 2002:

I am looking for a wiring diagram or block diagram for a 97 Dodge Intrepid,
3.5 Litre engine. Any ideas ?

From a valiant reader on 2 July 2002:

I have a 1968 Valiant.  It has only 65000 miles on it and my dad purchased it
new.  It is kept in a garage during the winter, only driven in the summer.
It idles a little rough and vibrates when the speedometer gets up to 55 and
above.  Im looking for a good mechanic in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago to
keep it finely tuned so that I can keep it for another 30 years. (I hope).
Any ideas about correcting the problems and finding a mechanic who can work
on old cars and takes pride in their work?

From Shirley Kirchner on 22 June 2002:

Iam seekig info on engine electrical wiring harness for a 1973 plymouth duster 6
cylinder.

From Curtis the Determined on 14 June 2002:

Looking for any info on converting '86 Dodge Daytona to V8 RWD.

From Joshua Kellum on 13 June 2002:

i have a 88 shelby z and the thermastat housing bolt broke off in the block 
and i am having trouble getting it out do you know of anything that i could 
use other then an easy out i tried that and it broke to lol well if you can 
think of anything please let me know thank you bye ~josh~

From Carlos Loges on 12 June 2002:

Hi , i hope you are very well, I'm writing from Venezuela and I'm looking for the all
kit of the roof for a convertible Dodge Dart 69 (frame and Top).

Waiting for an answer

Best regards.

From Aaron Alberts on 7 June 2002:

I am actively looking for a 1969 dodge charger general lee or at least
orange for my  movie trailer.  I am in southern california.  ANy info you
could provide woul be incredibly helpful.  I had no idea it would be this
hard to find one.

From Adri Berger on 6 June 2002:

I have a question, I live in Holland, and I own a Dodge D200 crew cab
pick-up truck from 1978.
The standard engine is a 318 (5.2L) as you probably will know, but a couple
of weeks ago a bought a revised (new piston rings, bearings etc.) 360 engine
without heads!
The question now is: can you tell me if I can use the 318 heads on the 360
block?

Here are the casting numbers and information:

The 318 engine (where the heads are taken from) is from 1976, and the
numbers of the heads are:
4027163 (both heads) and there’s also 348 in one, and in the other 351.
Inlet valve diameter is: 1.508 inches
Outlet valve diameter is: 1.783 inches

The 360 block has the numbers:
4045601-360 with the date: 4-2-76

The pistons have no valve relieves:
Diameter piston: 3.957 inches (cylinder: 3.984)
They have two circular ‘levels’ the outer circle is higher (0.07 inches),
and the inner circle has a diameter of: 2.83 inches
They have a marking 818 in the surface.

Also I think I should tell you that the fuel I use is Liquid Petrol Gas
(LPG)

I don’t want to race, I just want to have a more powerful (hp an Nm) car.
What I don’t want is to have problems AFTER I assembled the whole thing, so
please convince me to either go for the 318 heads, or better try to find 360
’s after all.

Thanks very much in advance.

From a clown with a friend who has a nice car on 14 May 2002:

A friend is restoring a '70 Charger and it seems to be missing the lower lip
[across dash] for the windshield gasket. {probably rusted off?]  Do you know
of anyone that makes a replacement or repair part for this problem?

From Buzz Theis on 30 April 2002:

I'm looking for a source to obtain good black & white printable Logos. In this case
Chrysler / Dodge & Jeep to be used for Hot stamp metal mounted magnesium. The
dealarships don't have much to offer.
Thanks...   Buzz Theis

From a delusional truck driver on 27 April 2002:

I am a Hemi enthusist who is beef 'n up a Dakota with a 426 Hemi. The problem
is i can't find any one who sells complete Hemi engines. Where can I obtain a
legendary Hemi and exactlly how much is coming out of my wallet?

Thank you, and the help will be much appreciated.

From Amanda Gibson on 22 April 2002:

I am looking for a cloth seat cover to go on a 1987 Dodge Dakota truck. I
would like one that has pockets in the front for storage and that fits a
bench seat. Please email with information and pictures if possible.

From Pothead Dartboy on 20 April 2002:

I am selling the domain name: Dodgedart.net on ebay. If you are interested in
checking it out, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&
item=2018532347
or click on the link below. Thanks and have a nice day, Norm
 DodgeDart.net domain name

From Tony Regino on 15 April 2002:

Dear Sir,
                If there is any possible way of sending me information on
how I can obtain a spoiler for a 1969 Dodge Charger just like the one on the
"Dukes of Hazard car" it would be greatly appreciated

From William Shaw on 30 March 2002:

Do you have any correspondence on converting a four-cylinder conquest to
a Chrysler V8 (318 or 340)?  Thanks.  wms

From Dave Jacobus on 23 March 2002:

I have a later model ram 350 cab&chassis w/a 360-4 bbl.
(Q-jet motor) auto. Con Rod THRU THE BLOCK. Will a 1993 318 magnum motor bolt in? I
need to know if the intake/exhaust manifolds will work. What about motor mounts? I
know the torque converter needs to be changed. Any other comments or info will be
greatly appreciated.

From Demetri Zitsos on 19 March 2002:

I am looking for a gauge cluster for a 66 Charger help.PLEASE

From Adam Short on 18 March 2002:

Thank You so much for the heater core info on the dodge charger. I've
been trying for months to figure out how to do it. But, I have one
question. Does your charger have a Colum shift, or is your shifter on the
floor on the console? I have a console in the center, and I can't wiggle
that darn box past it. I had the box out, but I just couldn't get it by
the center console. Can you PLEASE help me?

From Walter Whitney on 27 February 2002:

Have you any idea how to make [a cold-air intake] for a pt cruiser 2002? Or maybe a
suggestion on how I can make one. Thanks Walter Whitney

From Mark Belew on 16 February 2002:

I HAVE THREE CHARGER'S AND LOTS OF PART'S
I WOULD LIKE TO SELL THESE ITEMS , BUT DO NOT KNOW WHERE TO
LIST THEM, CAN YOU HELP ME ON THIS MATTER PLEASE
IAM NEW TO THE INTERNET . THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP
MARK BELEW

From Darlin' Darlene on 27 January 2002:

Hi
I have a 1988 Dodge Daytona with a 2.5 litre engine it wont start I checked the codes
and changed the map sensor and the plugs still nothing. Any ideas ???  the couple of
times I got it going sounds real rough then dies when I put it in gear.

From Rob Tischert on 3 January 2002:

    Hey cheif!
I hate to bother you again man but this is the guy who left you a cave drawing you
posted last for the certain orange charger. No, I haven't decided to paint mine like
it and I hope this doesn't screw up your bashing page. But, since your a charger guy
I need some help. I need a tail panel for my car! I've tried Year One, Paddock, all
the places that say they have all my restoration needs, yet, they don't. I've emailed
countless junkyards and did some searching around here and nothing. Either, "naw,
ain't gonna sell it!" or something you know. If you have any information on this
part, it welds in between the quarters, alot of people think I'm talking about the
rear valence but I think you know what I mean, please let me know, maybe you know
someone, if so, I am willing to pay shipping charges. But, don't go out of your way
or through any trouble to find this part, just if you know, "Hey yeah i know where on
is" then I can be emailed at rft4324@tntech.edu or if you prefer call [phone removed]
ask for Rob, the guy wanting a charger tail panel, but don't go out of your way like
I said, thanks and good luck!

From James Butler on 30 December 2001:

HI   there i am looking for a charger i am on my grand mothers comp so plz do
not email me back hear you can email me at ratman43@hotmail.com . i have
always wanted a genreal lee buy can not fined a 69 dodge charger rt if you
know wear there is just the boddy of one in fair shap plz let me know . thank
you

From Colin Healy on 27 December 2001:

I have a question.
I own a 69 Valiant Chrysler VIP . It is the Australian model with 318 and 904.
I am keen to find an adapter kit to put a 700R 4 speed behind the smallblock.
Are there any links-retailers I can contact in the Us that will help me out.
Or is a 4 speed Auto already available for the smallblock?
Colin from Queensland Australia.

From Jack O'Connor on 17 December 2001:

Hi,
     I recently came across your webpage containing photos of a 1940 Chrysler Royal
	 Coupe restoration project.   I have a 100% rust-free 1940 Chrysler Windsor
	 Convertible Coupe.  The only parts missing from my car are the pieces that
	 surround the dashboard, which encircle the guages, speedometer, etc.  I noticed
	 that the same pieces on your dashboard are also unusable and a few other 1940
	 Chryslers that I have seen on the web all have the same problem.  Have you been
	 able to obtain usable dash pieces or am I going to have to customize my dash? 
	 Thanks for your time.
                                                   Sincerely,
                                                   Jack O'Connor

From Valiant Jason on 14 December 2001:

Hi. Didn't see a page for vehicles for sale but if anyone you know would be
interested in a 1964 Valiant 2 door with a V8 and push button automatic in good
running and driving condition and good body except has a dent in passenger side front
fender email me and let me know if you would. It is in north central Oklahoma. Asking
price is $1200 but negotiable. Thanks for your time.

From Jim Mallis on 7 December 2001:

I AM CHECKING AROUND TO FIND A NEW SOURCE FOR RESTO PARTS OTHER
THAN YEAR ONE
FOR A 69 CHARGER R/T. I HAVE NOT HAD GOOD LUCK W/YEAR ONE AND 
WOULD
APPRECIATE ANY GOOD SOURCES YOU COULD PASS ON MY WAY.   GOOD 
SITE BY THE
WAY!!      THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN SHARE.

From Glenn Matejek on 6 December 2001:

I'm interested in information to install an AirBox on my Weber carborator
for a
1987 Jeep Wrangler.  Do you have any information on this or who I can get in
touch with concerning this.
Thanks

From Zack Kolnsberg on 6 December 2001:

Hello MOPAR brethren, I have a 69 GTX and I am trying to find out if it is
numbers matching for the 440 motor.  I have had the car for 15 years.  I
need HELP with the MOTOR information on the bottom..  Could this be a
factory replacement block?  Or am I not looking in the right place.  The
motor is out of the car right now and I am in the process of painting and
detailing it..  Please please help me, all the people around here are CHEVY
and FORD geeks and they refer to my PLYMOUTH as " a Dodge or something"....

My 1969 Plymouth GTX information.
*    Vin# RS23L9G267899 ( G or C? )
*    OPTION CODES ON FENDER TAG
*    N85 TACHOMETER
*    N96 AIR GRABBER HOOD?
*    R11 MUSIC MASTER AM RADIO
*    R21 PERFORMANCE HOOD TREATMENT
*    V6W LONGITUDINAL WHITE STRIPE
*    END
*    B51 POWER ASSIST DISK BRAKES
*    C16 CONSOLE WITH WOODGRAIN PANEL
*    C55 BUCKET SEATS
*    J25 3 SPEED WIPERS
*    M21 ROOF DRIP MOLDINGS
*    M33 DOOR AND BODY SIDE MOLDINGS ( END OF SECOND ROW )
*    B5
*    B5
*    P6D
*    B7
*    515
*    1962SS OR 55 ( END OF THIRD ROW
*    E86
*    D32 HEAVY DUTY A 727 TORQUE FLIGHT TRANSMISSION
*    RS23
*    L9G
*    267899 END OF TAG.....
*    BLOCK HAS E 440 57 HP STAMPED ON THE FRONT this has an upside down
capital letter A under the 440.
MADE NOVEMBER 14TH,  1968 AT 2345 HOURS.( NUMBER HERE TOO on both 
sides is 2536430-8 )

From Buster Wallace on 13 November 2001:

I've got a cat gutting question. I've got a 96 Ram 1500 and the cat is rattling like
hell. I've heard some cars won't run worth a flip if ya gut the cat cuz it'll screw
up the way the computer reads exhaust pressure. I would rather run with the cat
gutted cuz I did it on my Vet and it ran like a champ. However, I don't want to get
invloved in pulling it off, gutting it and welding it back on and the bloomin thing
not run right without having a replacement nearby. Do you have any knowledge as to
whether gutting the converter on this truck will have an adverse efect on it running
since I've done no other mods to it? if not, do you know any good Dodge sources
online I may check with?

From Confused Dodge Trucker on 6 October 2001:

e-mail me with prices for 4 upper control arm bushing, two upper ball
joints,2 lower ball joints , 2 outer tie rods, 1 center link, 4 wheel
bearings and seals and 1 idle arm.

From Larry Burris on 23 September 2001:

Has any articles been written on 4x4 68,69 or 70 Dodge Chargers? 
Do you know of anyone who has attempted such a project?  thanks 

From Rachael Gillispie on 13 September 2001:

hello... we have a 74 cuda with a 318 3 spd trying to find it's value... can u help?
thank you!

From New York, seriously, on 5 September 2001:

hi...  iam  a  serious  buyer   who  lives  in  ny.....i  would  like  to
know  if  you  have  anyone  or  anyplace  that  i may  contact  to  buy  a
1973..dodge   charger   se..thank  you..

From Andrew Naprawa on 21 August 2001:

Hey
I'm interested in a '71 Roadrunner that doesn't have a data tag.   Where
do I look on the car to tell if it's numbers matching?  engine, tranny,
rear end?  Also, how do I tell what type of rear end the car has by
visual inspection?

Thanks

From Josh With A Big Tongue on 14 August 2001:

great site..........i was wondering if ya know of any sites that tell you all
about the 1969 dodge charger r/t...... like about the engine and  stuff (not
just pictures of it...)..........i was also wondering if yall knew of a site
that tells you how to put a super charger in it and what you
need..............thanx

From Dodge Boy Khris on 10 July 2001:

hello 
   Youve helped me out before with my dodge daytona but now i have a question 
pertaining to the lights on the car. The lights i have are the ones that pop 
up and down but now they wont budge.The car has sat awile and the lights did 
work then,but soon the battery died because it was old and so the car sat 
awile now i have a new battery and the lights are giving me trouble.Now the 
actual lights do go on but they wont pop up.I can put them up manually but as 
soon as i turn them off they go down but wont come up.my question is what 
could the problem be and how can i fix it.Your help would be greatly 
appreciated once agian as was before.

thank you

From Chris Ramsey on 28 June 2001:

Hello, I was wondering if you know of any dodge chargers for sale.
 
Thanks

From Frank Eisenman on 20 June 2001:

Hello, I was wondering if you have given up on the '40 Chrysler
Royal Coupe?  I have one and it is missing a hood ornament, outside
rearview mirror, and right rear taillight housing.  Willing to sell
those to me or are you still working on the car?

From Slow But Intrepid Adrian on 10 May 2001:

Hello I'm a first timer on your site. and was wondering if you can help me. I have 
a 99 DODGE INTREPID V6 3.2 I have a matrix intake system and a flowmaster
exhaust(SOUNDS AWESOME).I want to throw some headers on, but I can't find 
um, or some one who installs. I know that my ride is to heavy to race. But I 
would still like to supe it up as much as possible.can you recomend any thing? I 
love speed and power. I need more. Please help! Bielieve it or not I can hang with 
most of the hondas and acura's out there. iM TIRED OF SEEING SO MUCH 
FOREING CRAP ON THE ROAD. I GOTTA REPRESENT! U.S.A BABY!                                

                                     Thanks for you time

From Dodge Boy Khris on 16 April 2001:

  Hello my name is Khris and iam 17. I resently perchashed a 1990 dodge 
daytona es and it needs to have some body work and a paint job anyways do you 
have any good links that could give me good advice on how to restore a car by 
yourself. Yuor help would be greatly appreciated.    

From Laverne Church on 15 April 2001:

SAW YOUR 40 CHRYSLER ROYAL COUPE AND WAS WONDERING 
HAVE YOU HEARD OF A CHRYSLER TRAVLER AND IF SO WHAT 
IS ONE WORTH IN VERY GOOD SHAPE?

THANKS FOR ANY INFO .

From Scott Beard on 6 March 2001:

I was searching the web for a site that would tell me how to decode the build 
sheet for my 68 Dodge Charger. Do you know of any such sites?      

Thank you for your time

From David Olsen on 27 February 2001:

Dear Spacebears,
                          Your site is very informative & almost more so
humorous! I was searching for info on rebuilding the front suspension on
my '85 D250 2 X 2. I found your site. Your article is much more
informative than any repair manual that I've read. As a non pro
mechanic, it's nice to know the finer points about a job. Most manuals
might read "remove ball joints". Thanks! That doesn't tell me how to do
it without destroying half of the front suspension. Your article does
point out where a good bashing with a 3 pound hammer is the way to go.
All of this is leading to a question. Can I use the info in the article
on your '74 truck for my '85?
The front ends look similar, but I thought a second opinion might be a
good idea. Any input would be appreciated.

Cheers,
           David Olsen
           Chula Vista, Ca.

From Josh Womack on 15 February 2001:

Hey guys this is Josh.
  Gotta hand it to ya, you fellas have a great site.  I need some advice
though.  I own a 96' Dodge IndyRam, I'm sure you are familiar with these,
they are basically what started the whole SS/T bit.  I've taken it upon
myself to attempt to produce  a street legal 600 or more hp street-truck.
 To top it off I want to harness that power by sticking a T56 6-speed
manual in it, see if I can't send a few of these corvette rich-daddies
home with a hurtin' ego.  First of all, can it be done? And second of
all, can you buy these things with custom gearing.  I'm looking for the
killer acceleration throughout the first 4 gears and then trim it out
into some wild top-speed in the upper 2 gears.  Besides all that, the
taller high gears sure wouldn't hurt for better mpg.  Any suggestions?

From A Guy Whose Name Is "." on 10 February 2001:

Attn: Paradise Garage, This is a great web site you have! Please, advise
if you think $700.00 is a fair price for the subject truck. I ran across
a 1975 Dodge 100 Adventurer SE with front sway bar. It needs new tires,
break lines, shocks, horn. the 318 c.i. engine pan gasket leaks and the
A727 3 speed automatic transmission slips in high gear.The truck also
needs a complete tune-up. The frame & body has just a little service
rust and one rust through spot on the cab. The truck has a tow hitch
welded to the frame & has electrics hooked up for towing. The original
two tone paint job can be simonized back to life. I did not know if you
picked the truck because it was considered a good truck worth restoring
or was picked for another reason. I wanted to restore it as a tow
vehicle for a  sawmill & 24 foot Airstream trailer or slide in camper.
I  did not want to see it go to the junk yard but thought the restore
costs might be prohibitive. Thank you.

From Stefan Anthony on 5 February 2001:

Hi,

Had a great time going through your site. As a novice owner to a 70 Charger, 
I found it very educational.

I have a question which I'm wondering if anyone could help me with. I'm looking 
at getting a new set of wheels for my car, including tires as well. I've narrowed 
down the selection to the following wheels:

Centerline Auto drag:

And I'm going to get BF Goodrich Radial T/As.

What I'm a bit uncertain about is what dimension I should get, especially for the 
wheels. I've figured through looking at the BF Goodrich page that anything from  
6" to 7.5' would work for the fron wheels (aiming at 225/70R15), and 7.5" to 
9.5" for the rears (aiming at 275/60R15). 

A small problem is that I'm actually out abroad working for the moment, so I'm 
not where my car is. As such there are a few things I have not been able to check 
on, namely:

bolt circle (4 1/4, 4 1/2 and 4 3/4 available)
the other is 
backspacing ( 1 5/8 ", 3 5/16 and 4  7/8") Honestly, I'm not to sure about what 
the backspacing is, and wondering if you could help me out on this one.

Basically, I'm wondering if you could advice on:

correct bolt circle
suitable back space

Thanks alot!

From Intrepid Kyle on 15 January 2001:

I have a '93 Dodge Intrepid (don't laugh!), I want a cold air intake in it... 
I have it all planned out except for the tubing part of the air intake.  Do 
you know what material would be best ( conduct less heat, without melting)?  
The people at iceman use, and said to use, some kind of polyeurathane pipe; 
so I've heard everything from even glass filled nylon to PVC to aluminum...  
What would you suggest (also suggest besides the material)?
                                           thanks!

From David Shove on 16 December 2000:

Hello. I have a question. Is there any way to tell if a Charger R/T is really an R/T 
and not a impersonator.  
Thanx,
David

From Miles Barghest on 14 December 2000:

    in a few weeks i am going to pick up a 1974 dodge sharger.  it belonged 
to a friend of my fathers.  all i know is it has a 400 ci engine in it.  i am 
trying to find out as much as i can about the charger before i get into it so 
anything you can offer or direct me to would be helpful 
    thank you
        Miles

From Loretta W. Scheler on 8 November 2000:

HI, 
I own a 68 Charger, and it needs a new Heater Core. I have the core, but
have never put one in before. Do you have anything that could help me. 

Thanks!

From John Wissemer on 4 September 2000:

I am restoring a '68 charger and I am having a little trouble with the vacuum 
lines that work the headlight doors. I was hoping that you might have or know 
where I can get a detailed set of directions that will help. the entire light 
system was not connected when I received the car and I am kind of lost in 
this area. Any idea? thanks for your help.....

From Walter Acker IV on 26 August 2000:

there is possibly an easier way to undo the top nuts from the front
shocks. Take a deep well socket that fits onto an impact gun with an
extension to clear the fender and bounce the car on it front suspension
and while the car is bouncing use the 1/2 impact to release the nut
while their is pressure on the nut
as for the starter you will find that the starter system in earlier
engines is the same for all models of starters so if the 1.8 horsepower
starter fits inside the headers you will find that it will spin the
engine over faster which makes starting easier
most rebuilds use the following part number system you can cross
reference
3250- 1 HP
3257- 1.5 HP
3258- 1.8 HP
3259 different type of wire mount
the basic difference is that the black section of the higher HP starters
is longer in relationship to the HP

From Terry Rydman on 22 June 2000:

If you know anyone interested in a 1973 Dodge Charger - SE (318 - 2 bbl), 
automatic, completely restored except dash vents and door pulls, please have 
them contact me via email at rydman@uswest.net ($3,500)

From Elmer Through A Friend on 23 March 2000:

Hi, i am using my friends account. I need help in finding parts to restore my 
69 Dodge Charger. Any PHONE NUMBERS you have would be greatly appreciated.  
Please call me, even COLLECT.  I need to get started on repairs. 
Thank You,  Elmer
815-730-1992

From Athol Wesselink on 17 March 2000:

Hi
I have a very rusted ' 68 dodge charger.
The motor and transmission seem OK, the body is unfortunately shot.
So here goes my call for help. Do you know of any bodies looking for a new home?
Regards

From Jay Lounsbury on 8 March 2000:

Your site came up in a google search for a parts car for repair of my 
brutally murdered 1990 Daytona ES (idiot ran a red light at speed). If my 
e-mailing you is inappropriate, I'm sorry.
Estimate to repair the car is $5400. Need I say that I took as good care of 
the car as I possibly could, that I've had it for 7.5 years, that I just love 
it, and it fits me perfectly? Anyway, both my wife and my lawyer say I should 
stop insisting on getting the car back and find something else. Am I a fool?
Thanks.

From Lindsey Duhs on 3 February 2000:

Hello, My name is Lindsey Duhs and IM writing from Jackson miss. I own a 1970 charger
R/T which I have restored. I am also the president of the central Mississippi Mopar
Club here. Just wanted to say hi and see what kind of response I would get. My E-mail
is lclinds@earthlink.net. Our club web site is new and in the makings at
http://geocities.com/rickcmmc/ . Look forward to hearing from you.

From Rich Firestone on 18 December 1999:

Hi, If you still have the 70 charger headlight motors I'll glady pay the 
shipping for them.   Just let me know how much shipping is to NJ.
Feel free to throw other mopar parts in the box. Thanks, Rich

From Jeremy Reincke on 9 September 1999:

`Hi,
I was wondering if you were gonna sell the Charger?If so what price would you ask for
it?And what kinda engine is in it?

From Ken O'Neil, Jr. on 15 May 1999:

To James O'Brien,
An excellent source for the what, where, and how of parts swapping is the
Hollander Parts Interchange Manual. If you can find it, it's probably the
best interchange manual out there. He's absolutely correct, Mopar is easy
to interchange parts for; For example, Dodge truck door handles from '72 to
'93 will inter change for the handles on  late '60's B-Bodies, the hood
hinges and either upper or lower door hinges are also a direct swap. The
Hollander manual gives you scads of similar interchanges. My '68 Charger
has parts as new as '93 on it. So get that big blue book.

From Lisa Lalesh on 24 Apr 1999:

Do you know of any sites dedicated to the '67 Charger with a 426 hemi?  I 
have not been able to find anything.

From Terry-Marguerite Van Zee on 12 Mar 1999:

After looking at "The Paradise Garage Sale!" website, I decided to email a part
request to you.  I was wondering if you have a good gas tank for a 1974 Dodge
Charger.  I have been shopping  around but are still looking for a well-priced gas
tank that is in good condition.  If you have one, please send some info (condition,
price, etc.) to me. 

Thanks!