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© 1998 Brian F. Schreurs
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A 1995 Ford Mustang GT, a frequent visitor to the Garage, ponied up its AODE trans. Trans-Go provided the shift kit (#TRG-AODE), and Fram got our bucks for a trans filter (#FT1144) and gasket (included). We also needed snap-ring pliers (these are a must) and a gasket scraper (depending on how gakked up your gasket is). The kit comes with printed instructions and a video; we'll note where they differed. We always erred toward the print instructions and it seemed to work just fine.

By the way, we've heard reports of kits being shipped without the video. If you don't get a video, call your supplier and demand one! Although there were discrepancies, the job was still much easier with the video. Get it! You paid for it!

Take out the dipstick. We don't know why. Just do it.

Remove the transmission pan. It's held on by a zillion 10mm bolts. The best way to avoid geting soaked is to remove the side bolts first; then the rear bolts; then the outer front bolts (now you'll start seeing fluid); and finally, slowly undo the last two front bolts. Be sure to have a catch pan and an oil eater mat.

Yuck! Fluid everywhere.

Once the fluid is done pouring all over the place, carefully remove the pan. Remember -- there's still fluid in there! Pour the excess into the catch pan but leave the catch pan under the trans to catch the dripping from the valve body. Clean the pan and the magnet -- yecch. If you still have a dust thingy, keep it! It'll amaze the next guy to service it.

Remove the filter. Be prepared for more fluid.

Take a pad and a pen under the car and draw a map of the electrical connections. We'd tell you how, but it's really important that you make a diagram that you understand, so it's best for you to follow your intuition here.

Make a good map of these connections and remove them carefully.

Carefully remove the electrical connectors. They're very brittle and may break. We broke one but so far it hasn't caused problems -- just be careful.

Loop the wires over your exhaust pipe to keep them clear of the work area.

Empty the catch pan. You'll need the capacity.

Look at the valve body. You'll see it's held on by tons of 8mm bolts. One of them holds a black bracket, and one holds the detent spring. Remove these first, then remove the other bolts. Work your way from the rear to the front. Be ready for more fluid. Lots more.

Leave the catch pan under the transmission to catch the continual dripping. Take the valve body to your workbench and clean it.

Go back to the car and remove the two smaller accumulator pistons -- the one closest to the front and the one closest to the rear. The rear (second accumulator piston) is not too hard. The front (third accumulator piston) requires snap-ring pliers to remove (doh!) a snap-ring. It works best if one person pushes on the piston while the other operates the pliers. They're both spring-loaded so keep your noggin clear.

Set the pistons in a safe place and go back to the valve body.

The gasket is not likely to come off without a fight.

Notice how there are three round metal disks on the separator plate. Each has a notch in it. Use a screwdriver to trace the notch so that you can put the plates back where they came from. We don't know why. Just do it.

Scrape off the top gasket. You'll certainly need a gasket scraper; we finally moved up to a wire-wheel drill bit for some parts.

Remove the round disks. There is also one extra bolt holding the separator plate on -- get that one too.

Remove the separator plate. It's got another gasket holding it to the valve body -- scrape that one off too, being careful to not get any gasket goop in the valve body.

The valve body has a lot of little loose things. It has 8 checkballs, a little screen, and a drainback valve. Shake them out and keep them all.

Be careful drilling into the separator plate -- you only get one shot at it.

The instructions tell you which holes to make wider on the separator plate. It identifies more holes than you need to drill, so ignore the holes that the instructions tell you to not drill. The guy in the video runs a bit through those extra holes, without making any change to them. This is stupid. If you're not making it bigger, don't mess with it. You also should not need to mark up your separator plate with a pen unless you are unable to read a map -- the diagram is quite enough.

Use a large drill bit to clean the flashing off the backsides of the holes. Just center the drill bit on the back of the holes and twist a couple of times, and poof! Smooth.

Now it's time to drill two new holes in the valve body. This is a nice, expensive part so don't screw up! By the way, the instructions tell you to use a 0.093-inch drill bit, but your kit doesn't come with one. It comes with a 3/32-inch bit; same size, different name. Thanks for confusing us, guys.

Remove the bottom plate. This time, be very careful to not bung up the gasket, because you're going to reuse it! But it should come apart okay so long as you take it easy.

This is the part of the valve body you'll be drilling.

You're going to drill two holes into the valve body. This is part of the new EPC relief valve, to bleed off excess pressure. Follow the instructions for exact placement and be careful.

Cram a little piece of paper into the valve body just below where you're working -- this keeps the shavings from getting into the valve body and makes cleaning it easier.

Drill away per the instructions. We broke a bit on the first hole. Don't worry -- it's a standard size available at any halfway decent hardware store.

Clean up the valve body.

Put the bottom plate back on; don't forget to be careful with the gasket.

Locate the back-out valve on the driver-side rear of the valve body. The instructions say to remove it -- not necessary. Just remove the retaining clip, then swap the spring per the instructions and put the clip back.

Remove the E-clip from the manual valve. It's the one flopping around loose on the driver-side center of the valve body. This will let you push it out of the way.

Now you need to get to the 1-2 valve. It's in the first valve assembly forward of the manual valve. From outside to inside, the disassembly goes: plug; 2-3 valve; spring; 1-2 valve.

Remove the old 1-2 valve and replace it with the new one. The new one also has a spring and a checkball; the checkball goes inside and the spring goes on top. Reassemble.

Next you need to disassemble the lockup valve, located forwardmost on the driver-side. Remove the retaining clip and pull out the boost valve. Remove the spring. Contrary to the instructions, there's no reason to remove the pressure regulator valve so leave it alone. Put in a new spring from the kit and reassemble.

Next you need to disassemble the low servi valve, located second from the front on the passenger-side. Remove the retaining clip and pull out the low servo valve. Remove the spring, the second retaining clip, and the second spring behind it. Contrary to the instructions, there's no reason to remove the 3-4 capacity valve so leave it alone. Put in new springs from the kit and reassemble.

Replace the manual valve with the new one. Put the E-clip back on.

Put the checkballs back in. The instructions tell you where. Now here's an exciting discrepancy -- the video shows seven balls going back; the printed instructions only call for six. Which is right? We don't know, and tech support evidently doesn't work weekends. We decided to go with the printed instructions, as they're easier to update than the video. We put six back.

Put back the small screen and the drainback valve.

Install the tapered spring and orifice per the printed instructions. Note that the video makes no mention of this! Again, we deferred to the printed instructions. What's up with this, Trans-Go??

Position the valve body gasket without the three large holes first.

Set the separator plate on top of that and lightly smear it with transmission fluid. Be sure it goes on straight and flat, or fluid will sneak into the wrong channels and the trans won't hold a gear.

Position the valve body gasket with three large holes on top.

Replace the three round plates -- be sure to line them up with your marks. And replace the oddball bolt on the driver-side.

Set aside the valve body for now. Get your accumulator pistons. The bigger one is the second accumulator piston and the smaller one is the third.

Regardless of what the video says, this is the correct way to reassemble the accumulator pistons.

On the second piston, follow the print instructions -- the video is totally wrong. There is no "green spring" to install, but there are some exciting washers to choose from. For the top washer you can choose from one to three washers; more washers make harder shifts. We went with one washer and that was darn well hard enough. Go for more if you like having your fillings redone.

For the third piston, follow the instructions for the springs, but ignore the video when it tells you to reuse the retainer. You will be replacing the retainer with a piston stop.

Go back to the car and push the top half of the third accumulator piston into place. With a couple of tries it should stay in place on its own.

The second accumulator piston is extremely tense. The best way to install it is to have someone push on the piston with the handle of a breaker bar while you work the snap-ring with snap-ring pliers. With the ring in place it should stay put.

Make absolutely sure that you've reinstalled all the parts on the pistons! It's easy to forget something, and if you do, the trans won't stay in gear.

Hold the valve body to the transmission housing by attaching one bolt to the front of the valve body. This will allow it to sit at an angle.

Squeeze the bottom half of the third accumulator piston into the bore. Tighten up that one bolt to hold it in place, then add a second bolt close to the piston.

Put back the detent spring and black bracket.

This is the assembled valve body just before going back in.

Bolt up the valve body. While doing this, be sure to assemble the EPC relief valve per the instructions. Don't forget to remove the cotter pin after putting it together.

Rewire the trans per your diagram.

Install a new filter; lubricate the neck to help it slide in.

Bolt up the pan with a new gasket.

Drop the car.

Add six quarts of Dexron III/Mercon fluid.

Start the car, put it in D, and add two more quarts.

Check the level. Add more fluid if necessary.

Run the trans through all gears; check again; add more if necessary.

Go for a test drive. Be sure to use all transmission functions -- gears up, gears down, overdrive on and off. Check low gears; make sure they hold correctly. Bring it home and check the level; add if necessary.

Does it make a difference? Uhhh... yeah! Don't bring any open beverages in the car now. The shifts are much, much firmer, and it's now possible to hold any gear -- the trans can't override your low selections. Certainly adding any more washers would have been brutal.

So, you're probably wondering what we've done to this transmission. We don't know! The instructions never told us. We increased fluid flow, and put in some stiffer springs, but what exactly has been changed is a mystery. But it works, whatever it is!

Note that this Mustang also has an electronic shift control box. Be assured, there is no comparison. These modifications have resulted in much stronger shifts with no noticeable side effects, whereas the electronic adjustments sometimes cause problems for the computer and inspire less confidence to boot. These mods result in firmer shifts; the electronic mods result in harder shifts. The seat of your pants knows the difference.

Our call: use the electronics as a backup, or skip them altogether. Either way, do this first.